Changjiang Delta is much more ancient town, kiln bay ancient town appears and not quite famous. Last year during new year's day, go Xuzhou visits lion Shan Hanmu, suitable path comes here to go. Kiln bay ancient town is located in southwest corner of city of new short for the Yihe River of North Jiangsu Xuzhou, with Su Qian one water is linked together, place the Grant Canal and vicugna lake are handed in collect a place. Cold at that time winter just came, the river water of chilly circles a town and flow, deep gray building shows one clique to become silent, solemn and quiet, Piao Zhuo.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Aqueduct gold triangle, north Jiangsu small ShanghaiCrossed city gate building, along alley of river side meandering, wear bridge of 3 give up, entered Gu Zhendong market very quickly. Narrow street both sides, green made of baked clay upturned eaves, shop row upon row of, dyehouse inn, bamboo makes up shop of inn, pork, hot stockpot... one is next to, one is connecting, see the prosperity of downtown streets of former days ancient town not hard from which.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Kiln bay and history involve a predestined relationship is to be after the Grant Canal of cut of emperor of Yang of the Sui Dynasty, boatman every classics here, the bend that always should be in this ever was ancient kiln location is in stop on the way for a rest to take shelter from the wind, "Kiln bay " renown from this and come. Period of bright Qing Dynasty, it became town of military importance of North Jiangsu business, the merchant gathers, flourishing, person enrages marketplace exuberant, on the canal south come the dialect that the ship sail that north goes is carrying each district, flourishing temporarily. The kiln bay of period of at the height of power and splendour, person stop for refreshment when travelling, boat supply, here became the important commercial and transportation center of Beijing Hangzhou the Grant Canal, often " day crosses mast sail 1000 lever, boat of nocturnal berth boat 10 lis " , exceptionally grand occasion.
Gravel China / civil graph
Numerous and peddling sit Gu Ju collect hereat, make business of kiln bay ancient town bustling all-time prosperity, as a result was won " small Shanghai " say. So, kiln bay Gu Zhenwei stays or answer the building pattern that establish is numerous, have northward architectural already straightforward, have southern architectural again beautiful, there is no lack of even the Xiaolou of western style. By the side of carry bank, have cathedral of a gothic All Souls'Day, adornment glass of color is born in Yi of the Yi below wintry day sun brightness.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Later, because freight manner varies, waterborne action weakens the canal, the action of center of ancient town merchant is weakened, old building made civilian room. Nevertheless, also because such, ancient town house is done not have too much demolish, street alley pattern basically maintained former appearance. Reparative the ancient town after opens to the outside world as scene area, restored pawnshop, old-style Chinese private bank, post office, try reductive of ancient town former days flourishing.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
There is the building of fame most on ancient town, should belong to Home Wu courtyard. In kiln bay, home Wu is so-called " Wu Banjie " . Of kiln bay Fujian of surname family ancestral home, bay of outback settle kiln migrates after, in local build wide mansion, founded " inn of Wu Hongxing cut tobacco " , through the effort of a few acting people, family property gradually flourishing rise, opened a branch in and other places of Nanjing, Beijing. Reach Home Wu Sun Wuyu Kui of the 3rd generation, it is high school a successful candidate in the highest imperial examinations more, official is in Beijing is resided 4 article. Between clear Guang Xunian, indulge in wilful persecution of North Jiangsu flood, wu Yu Kui gets relieve the people in stricken area of aim lysol north. After coming to kiln bay, its travel Ya also is set in Wu Jialao curtilage in. So, home Wu courtyard has Changjiang Delta rich Gu Hao not only curtilage peaceful and refined, more of a few minutes of goverment office in feudal China solemn and respectful with grave, not as identical as all illicit home house.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Kiln bay ancient town has the fish and shellfish as food that does not eat it seems that. End of street edge alley, always can see a move iron bowl blast is worn the stall of small fish. Had not approached, already Wen Yuxiang, oily wrap up is worn fish, "Give a talking-to of give a talking-to " incessant Yu Er. Salvage the aquatic product that come from vicugna lake, the Grant Canal, have white silk fish, penknife fish, white shrimp, still have small crab even. As northerner, I am to notional most of the fish steam or braise in soy sauce, the fish that deepfry comes out, have the mouth in already fragile tender, the lingering fragrance that still condiment is developed... allegedly, fish of blast of kiln bay person, use salt and condiment first souse night, do not have taste one time as expected!
Sweet oil and gram are burnedGravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
On peaceful in kiln bay ancient town street, "Sweet oily " with " gram is burned " banner in succession flying. Although kiln bay is very small, but make sweet the mill that oil and gram burn is not little however. A shop making and selling sauce of Zhao letter grand is produced namely sweet oily mill, also be a travel tourist attraction that open to the outside world at the same time. In a shop making and selling sauce, not only have pack elegant travel souvenir, also the person that from time to time sees kiln bay town go up carries a bottle to hit sweet oily. "Black sauce is caught from Hei Fei Chinese ink, sweet oil is small sweet it is sweet sweet " -- sweet oily, listening to still think suddenly is oily and so on of the edible that contain sugar, it is soy actually, use at doing dish to flavor, delicacy surpasses chicken broth. 4 house 66 rooms, there is large-scale sauce crock in the courtyard. Walk into mill, scan widely looks, see large bamboo hat of hundreds fastigium bamboo is building crock of a buccal terracotta only, blast Zhen Chunxiang blow on the face and come, not by let a person remember " bask in sufficient 180 days " ad saying.
Gravel China / civil graph
Make sweet oily, must grind wheat fine, face of shape of make it embryo piece evaporate is ripe, put in dark indoor add lukewarm, when the bacterium cloth with soft nap of long yellow giving milk, next will face piece air, put big crock inside, deserve to go up brine is replete crock, illuminate below sunshine bask in, begin from spring commonly, annual, through insolation month dew, the material of the generation after filtering is " sweet oily " . Although, foreigner feels sweet to oil is soy, but native thinks sweet oil is sweeter, have a light sweet taste.
Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
"Gram is burned " it is a kind of wine, letting a person very easily misunderstand is with gram brew. Actually, it is wait with broomcorn, barley, wheat for raw material, join ginseng, arenaceous benevolence, the Chinese traditional medicine such as the bark of eucommia is led to, because debauchery palm is green, also call " green wine " . "Gram is burned " this name, come from the golden mouth of Qianlong emperor allegedly. Qianlong year, kiln bay production cries one kind " old tile is seamed " green wine, the door is slaughtered to defend after palace come home Ma Congkai mothering is transient kiln bay, sample " old tile is seamed " hind, admire substantially, imparted for this wine lane the health care of palace prolong life is meticulous square. Wine lane is followed after trying to consider to arrange by secret recipe, it is raw material with barley, sorghum, with high grade special music is wine radical, match with red ginseng, angelica, arenaceous benevolence, the 40 much flavour such as the bark of eucommia material of rare Chinese traditional medicine, and complementary wait for raw material with rock candy, white sugar, distribute the alcoholic drink that give, show golden wave green, see boiling water of Wan Re gram suddenly. Eye of person of its color hold up is drunk, its are sweet god making a person happy, by Ma Congkai pay intribute gives an emperor, exultation of the Long Yan after Qianlong is tasted, give a name then " kiln bay gram is burned " , pass alcoholic drink of drive of the front courtyard that it is palace.
Very sonorous " pull ocean piece "Gravel China / civil graph
Gravel China / civil graph
Go to street alley turning, see this clearing go up suddenly, placing " pull ocean piece " big wooden case, writing on fascia " foreign piece " music eye, mark a price 4 people 10 yuan. "Pull ocean piece " the old person is talking casually about in lee and person, receive us to invite, before returning wooden case immediately, pull the string that use case, begin to sing. Old person complexion is ruddy, front tooth hole leaves, sing whole person expression flies upwards. See the silver grey long gown on his body again, there is a chief a mistake or shortcoming that may be exploited by an opponent on skullcap, typical Qing Dynasty is dressed up at the beginning of end civilian. Actually, "Pull ocean piece " with respect to faddish Yu Qing at the beginning of end civilian, this also is the period of at the height of power and splendour of kiln bay ancient town. Right now here looks " pull ocean piece " , have really pass through to feel spatio-temporally.
Gravel China / civil graph
Foreign piece " music eye has " cat and mice do obeisance to brother " , " birdie of big carp capture " , " tiger lion elephant " , " 8 give up carry the pig on the back daughter-in-law " , " Wu Song anger kills Pan Jinlian " . Old person countenance is rich, libretto is humorous and humorous, change of discretion of music for voices in a Chinese opera is bigger, local accent is thick. "Pull ocean piece " it is a technical work, performer skill pulls cartoon to change, affect musical instrument to accompany single-handed, as a miniature reproduction of a painting ceaseless replace, act to be sung oneself oneself even, story of a dialectal a genre of popular entertainment consisting mainly of talking and singing, one person holds true it may be said concurrently several duty, a party to an undertaking of outside and in.
Gravel China / civil graph
A pair of flat beat of a few a case, a miniature reproduction of a painting, one side, small cymbals, fellow type although not much, can let an audience see however scene " listen " scene. A performance of ten minutes, phonic have, whole story scenario and can view and admire a gender, can weighs " small film " ! Of course, of this pair of performer sing, read aloud, performing time is great test, it is clear that spoken parts of a Chinese opera stresses speak ability, frustration has degree, can say the clue of the story well and truly to the audience as the change of the picture; Chant criterion requirement is sentimental, invite audience audience blessing of one ear of feast one's eyes on. According to textual research, "Pull ocean piece " make an appointment with arisen Yu Qing between end salty good year, original illume is candle power only.
Gravel China / civil graph
With " pull ocean piece " old person chitchat is informed, he is called Zhuang Anli, 69 years old, it is actor of play of an a plucked stringed instrument formerly. Pardonable old person " pull ocean piece " have level quite, it is to have professional strength so. Allegedly, company of development of travel of kiln bay ancient town invites him " pull ocean piece " , send salary by the month, it is program of travel of a folk-custom. I think, walk along the person that pass by crosses kiln bay ancient town, regular meeting is opposite this " pull ocean piece " old actor look over is unforgettable!
Gravel China / civil graph
Ancient civilian house, ancient street, ancient shop, ancient port city, Gu Weicun, ancient folk custom... casting kiln bay is ancient the culture grade of the town and culture connotation. Here, those who do not have city is blatant and move restlessly, roam in into piece Ming Qingjian is built group in, a haven of peace of just like place oneself, the heart that lets a person becomes relaxed at a draught carefree and halcyon, easy and comfortable.
Stick person
I was collected about kiln bay ancient towntravel is inspirational, here suits to experience jointly with everybody.
Annual will play optimal.
Net of happy road travel and traveler of happy road inspiration: Gravel China ramble releases: 2017.11.14