In culture of Chinese ancient time, dragon has ages ago history, it is civilization of an ancient name for China the most typical symbol and indicative, also be the most distinctive label on implements of Chinese ancient time, painting and calligraphy and even dress. The palace noble of past dynasties of all previous face and commoners common people, regard dragon as the wonder of pay homage to, and clothes of grain of dragon of implements of use dragon grain, dress, it is the myth of ordinary person within sight but beyond reach. Long Wen already evolved into the special lines with monarch and familial royalty to act the role of gradually in feudal times, once any individuals overstep his authority with, come necessarily the disaster of the extermination of an entire family that kill a body. The clear Gong Di that place of the Imperial Palace of the Imperial Palace of article basis Shenyang, Beijing collects is taken, choose the dragon grain design of a few models, reveal palace emperor to take the various Long Wen that go up to Zhu Jun, have more intimate knowledge and knowledge in order to make all gentleman are acted the role of to grain of this one tradition.
Divine dragon is long inheritance does not cease
The predecessor of quiet day, was 1616 Er of Qing Taizu exert breaths out bare to pull a city to found in A of the He Tu outside the eastern side of Ming Dynasty distant " big gold " (history the gold after saying) political power, its compatriots is formed, it is the Nuuzhen that lives at white hill black water mostly a group of things with common features (hind say to change Manchu) . No matter be hind the Nuuzhen person of golden period, still be person of golden face Nuuzhen, and even the ancients of person of distant acting Qidan, Yuan Chaomeng, they all go up at the horse of northward north of the Great Wall to gallop nation. According to these nations normally consuetudinary, dragon is the lucky luck animal of openly figure, bring people to be protected with bless in safety.
Hind gold (clear) political power is born beginning, according to the traditional habit of Nuuzhen person, regard Long Wen as naturally native luck to resemble, go up in implements of of all kinds palace, give on dress application. It is be confined to only warlike situation and material short at that time, the dragon grain thing that can make is opposite less, the relevant cultural relic that is passed to today is less also.
Clear emperor too extremely gown of mufti of grain of round dragon of yellow of for use of an emperor
Gown takes fabrics to be dark round Long Wen, place of its collarband, cuff all is the Yun Longwen that knit gold. Full-length 130 centimeters, sleeve length 83 centimeters, the waist is 62 centimeters wide, lap 102 centimeters. This mufti gown is by appraisal country one class cultural relic
Dragon drive the world only I alone honour
At the beginning of Qing Dynasty as the country each feudal ceremony is made begin to build, to sweat king (emperor) , Bei Le of princes and dukes, civil and military the dress of 100 officials is custom-built also begin generation. Tian Cong 6 years (1632) in December, emperor too extremely pass decree twice, to sweat king, Eight Banners Zhu Bei is strapped reach its Fu Jin (wife) , receive a standard oneself adult is the following, band section Beijing, protect army below the collection that reach an ox, disengaged the above such as wealthy person, everybody's dress makes a provision. Emperor too put forward extremely clearly: The king that divide sweat (emperor) besides, anybody " do not take yellow damask to reach seam 5 ungual dragon wait take. If fasten the person that sweat place is granted, just make take " .
Esteem heart the first year of an era or the reign of an emperor (1636) in May, emperor too extremely change dynasty title by big gold weigh big Qing Dynasty, made a series of palace dress systems, the coronal cap to noble and its dependant, dress, deserve to act the role of wait for detailed to increase a provision, emphasize finally: " Zuo of its dress, saddle, bridle, horse (canal of Chan) , plume, sit child, copy goes up to be divided more reserve 5 ungual dragon, phoenix, yellow damask person, prohibit all right without exception. Must not wear with Huang Yi, if has the person that make first, all makes demolish. Afore-mentioned each, if has the person that style of copy for use of an emperor counterfeits, move severe travel prohibits. Move severe travel prohibits..
Emperor of emperor of big clear found a state too extremely the v/arc instructions on dress, namely dress coloring and clothing lines are acted the role of, it is unborn emperor all the time from beginning to end a magic weapon of act on, "Ming Huangyan is lubricious " reach " grain of 5 ungual dragon " in " big clear conference is in charge of " in be certainly the emperor is special, become imperial dress prep above the special label of dress of all king, Bei Le.
Qianlong period, system of clear palace dress already tended perfect, according to custom-built, imperial dress has formal attire, auspicious to take, mufti, travel is taken, rain is taken wait for distinct category, among them formal attire and auspicious take the Long Wen that go up most, and it is to must knit embroider to have pattern of multicoloured dragon grain; Mufti and travel take the Long Wen that go up opposite less, and take fabrics to go up for gown mostly bright, dark brocade Long Wen.
The Long Wen on imperial formal attire
The formal attire of quiet day emperor is his manage politics, sacred when the dress of place dress, the formal attire that contains Long Wen basically includes face to take, ceremonial dress for royalty takes two kinds.
Face is taken, also call face gown, its appearance leaves skirt type for jacket, the gown that is an organic whole repeatedly for fluctuation actually is taken (graph 2) . The circle is gotten, add amice to get, right Ren the front of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right, tight narrow sleeve, cuff is horse's hoof sleeve. Cent takes two kinds of forms for winter, Xia Chao. Face is taken make with the material such as bright yellow tapestry satin, silken, gauze more. Wintry day is taken on embroider 10 Long Wen, among them around bosom and ministry of or so two shoulders each embroider dragon, folds in a garment under the waist indigestion place in all embroider goes 6 times dragon; Xia Chao is taken on embroider 38 Long Wen, among them around bosom and ministry of or so two shoulders each embroider dragon, lumbar curtain in all embroider goes 5 times dragon, the embroider in Ren dragon, folds in a garment accumulate place around in all embroider 18 round dragon, skirt (skirt) go up around in all embroider 2 dragon, 4 travel dragon, wrap around get in all embroider goes 2 times dragon, over sleeve of or so arrow each embroider dragon. Except Long Wen, day of imperial winter summer is taken over the around embroider of additional Yuyi has imperial for a special purpose " 12 chapters " design (this day, month, stars, hill, dragon, China bug, Zong Yi, alga, fire, pink rice, Fu, Fu.
Dragon of silken gold of Pure Brightness yellow river gives Feng Gachao robe
Full-length 136 centimeters, sleeve length 84 centimeters, cuff is 23 centimeters wide, the waist is 73 centimeters wide, lap 124 centimeters
Imperial face is taken except common bright yellow ground beyond, still have other a variety of color. Maize face is taken, basically use in palace each formal circumstance, and when the emperor gives Gong Can and different and sacred activity, want to differ according to place of place hold a memorial ceremony for, the face that wearing different facial expression is taken (graph 3) . If the emperor is sacred the place such as world of ground altar, the Temple of Heaven, day, month world, the face that should wear the different facial expression such as color of yellow, cyan, gules, pale blue respectively is taken (graph 4) , show the thought sense of day person syncretic. The form that face of other facial expression takes, all take with maize face identical, the Long Wen on clothes also is 38 each.
Festal face takes clear Jia Qingdi
A type of weaving done by the tapestry method in fine silks and gold thread of ground of clear pale blue is multicoloured gown of golden Longchan face
Full-length 136 centimeters, sleeve length 74 centimeters, the waist is 74 centimeters wide, lap 143 centimeters
Ceremonial dress for royalty is taken, take the dustcoat of type of long A Chinese-style unlined garment outside at gown to wear, it is an emperor in dress of outer garment of formal circumstance wearing (graph 5) . The circle is gotten, a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front, make the same score sleeve, the left and right sides and from the back have the full front of a Chinese gown. Often make with azurite damask makings, also have the distinction such as gauze, cotton. Ceremonial dress for royalty takes fabrics to be more plain coloured, 4 Long Wen are shared on the garment, in around bosom and ministry of or so two shoulders,
Embroider of colour of clear azurite damask makes the same score Jin Tuanlong ceremonial dress for royalty to take
Full-length 106 centimeters, sleeve length 73 centimeters, cuff is 30 centimeters wide, the waist is 80 centimeters wide, lap 116 centimeters
Imperial auspicious takes the Long Wen that go up
Imperial auspicious takes quiet day to basically point to imperial robe, weigh rich dress again, it is the emperor attends the wearing dress such as banquet of palace celebration, banquet, big marriage.
Imperial robe, the gown that is Manchu tradition takes pattern (graph 6) , type of right Ren the front of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right, sleeve of round neck, horse's hoof, quarto thes full front of a Chinese gown. Collarband, open the office such as sleeve of front of a garment, horse's hoof multi-purpose azurite damask ground, make pattern of Jin Long, seawater, cloudlet with embroider of golden line, color line. Gown body shares 9 Long Wen, namely prothorax, hind the back has each dragon, underside left and right sides has to rise dragon each, ministry of or so shoulder has to rise dragon each, on the right side of inside in front of a garment have dragon of a travel additionally. Imperial robe all sees 5 Jin Long when around looks, just with " 949 honour " photograph be identical. The grain on imperial robe is acted the role of except Long Wen, still have a tradition " 12 chapters " grain appearance, gown lap has briny river cliff, eight treasures additionally to establish water to wait for grain act the role ofing.
Embroider of colour of Pure Brightness yellow damask makes the same score imperial robe of golden dragon cotton
Full-length 144 centimeters, sleeve length 89 centimeters, cuff is 16.6 centimeters wide, the waist is 68.5 centimeters wide, lap 123 centimeters
Imperial mufti, travel takes the Long Wen that go up
Mufti, it is dress of the wearing when the emperor works at ordinary times, attend to be offerred sacrifices to greatly in its, in offer sacrifices to reach encounter have when special situation is sacred, also wear with mufti gown.
The travel of quiet day emperor is taken, it is the tour of inspection outside the emperor favour, ride shoot, gown takes the wearing when surrounding shrine of hunt, go out for a battle and hill of hold a memorial ceremony for, call on,
Make cultural relic of be handed down from ancient times of the palace that reach Qing Dynasty look according to Qing Chaoding, imperial mufti, travel takes the Long Wen that go up to want to be mixed far less at formal attire auspicious is taken, and mufti, travel takes the Long Wen that go up to rarely multicoloured embroider is tasted, go up for fabrics more bright, grain of dark brocade dragon (graph 7) , some uses the other lines such as word of round flower, round age to act the role of, or it is to be used completely plain coloured the fabrics that acts the role of without grain.
Makings of gown of mufti of dragon of cloud of a type of weaving done by the tapestry method in fine silks and gold thread of clear blue ground is local
Imperial army takes the Long Wen that goes up with other dress
The emperor divides quiet day to be taken in formal attire, auspicious outside going up to use dragon grain design in great quantities, be in what army is taken and also are pair of Long Wen on other dress to make, show those who be the emperor the emperor is expensive with this to honour with majesty.
From Beijing the Imperial Palace, Shenyang the Imperial Palace army of existent clear emperor for use of an emperor is taken look (graph 8) , the face knits embroider to have dragon grain pattern of the standard mostly on dress, specific for, no matter be armet of helmet of for use of an emperor, protect neck, amice, still be skirt of armour of garment of armour of the upper part of the body, bottom, and even the left and right sides on dress protects block of axil, around to seam etc, all act the role of have or become independent or become the Long Wen of the group. Because these dragon grain figure use golden line tailor generally, make whole army takes glorious Yi Yi, boast look unfamiliar brightness.
Hammer of copper of dragon of smooth gold of clear blue damask has the Long Wen of golden line tailor on cotton armour armour
As to the emperor some dragon grain pattern are made on other dress, its amount is not little also, like socks of pants of cap, clip, oversleeve, cotton (graph 9) , sickle of boots of tall waist face and various pouch, fire, handicraft work is waited a moment, variety is rich, full of beautiful things in eyes.
Lubricious edge of blameless cloth Hunan is knitted on waist of hose of socks of tall waist cotton have delicate Yun Longwen
