Civil | Yuan Jingying
Make up | Chen Fang
The article is achieved formerly by company of AI finance and economics manufacture, without the license, any channel, platform is not reprinted please. The person that violate needs investigate.In the evening at 11 o'clock, cafe of much home of town of Er of Yunnan province general still lights brightly lit, youth 0 medicinal powder medicinal powder sitting to chat. 2015 up to now, this has chiliad of a move in chess or a movement in wushu to drink tea more than 10 cafes appeared one after another in the history, city that has hundreds cafes. Interviewing a cafes already was a late night, merchant delivers a cup of nitrogen the coffee of extraction, companion of entrance Gan Tian has fruit is sweet, resembling is a cup of cocktail. With masses place hep " bitter coffee " flavour differs completely.
Basically produce a division Pu Er is Chinese coffee. The nest was entered 1988 up to now, output of beans of general Er coffee took the in part that whole Yunnan saves, and 98% what Yunnan province is holding Chinese coffee total output, be called " the city of Chinese coffee " . Current, integrated production value of coffee of Pu Er city 2.4 billion yuan, grow an area 795 thousand mus, crop 60 thousand tons.
Data shows, yunnan cultivates the farmer amount of coffee to have 400 thousand at least, they basically rely on to cultivate coffee beans to make a living, be called " Ga farming " . In the lucky favour coffee, instantly that waits for even coffee roiling on with full force of Internet coffee brand, the outside thinks generally to irrigate in capital the Pu Er Ga below farming people coffee field is more and more fertile, the fact is not however such.
Many Ga farming blunt ground says, did not want to do, because buy price lower and lower, labour cost is climbed tall, do not earn money. Ga farming abandoned the coffee beans field in the home directly, also won't cut coffee tree however; When if Chinese cabbage is bad,selling, the farmer makes Chinese cabbage sodden be in the ground simply. "Employing a person to cut a tree is a large sum of expense, flat without giving thought to,putting. Flat without giving thought to,putting..
The person that a coffee processes the 2 acting be in charge of the factory obtained the brushstroke order of Seesaw of brand of high-quality goods coffee 2016, beans of coffee of transition high-quality goods. Although live,do not have care, but this 90 hind administer person at present still suffers for coffee sale channel be restricted and pained.
Compare with foreign photograph, coffee of Er of Chinese Yunnan general still is in start level, very young still, prospective way is long and far.
Graph / Yuan Jingying
01
From the star Buck coffee evaluates a dot to come home all the way, ga farming Li Kun wants to jump over life more. Accept after a few days interview, when the current situation of market of coffee of Er of the general that be asked about, li Kun still has some of panting with rage, "Bad, bad, I did not want to do. I did not want to do..
Li Kun has look of 40 years old it seems that, continuously the face that old insolation lets him is shown slightly dark. In Pu Er coffee group has so a kind of view, the average age that opens cafe to drink coffee is in 30 years old under, the average age that cultivates coffee is in 35 years old of above. Li Kun is latter apparently.
With other Ga farming same, li Kun lives day after day year answer life of a year. General Er coffee tree blossommed every year in April, in December result. The Ga in a year farming what should do is ceaselessly fertilization, pruning, pick if really. Will come in December second year March is the busiest season, the mouthfeel with a cup of final coffee plucks if really by coffee delicacy that decides momently.
Bright red fruit needs to be picked immediately, squashy meeting affects taste, not ripe cannot ferment a sweet taste. Picked season, busy the Ga peasant association that comes nevertheless employs a person to pluck. At 78 o'clock in the evening, picked after ending, ga peasant association takes out a machine, in the exuviate on the cement field before oneself door, till before dawn at 9 o'clock.
Proper motion of beans of the coffee inside hour of the 12-14 after exuviate ferments, time arrives must clean, air is basked in, every measure has key. Beans of the coffee when for instance air is basked in cannot be spread too thickly, otherwise the bean next can ferment 2 times, taste changed. "Turn even the axis namely " , li Kun says. Especially during the Spring Festival, workers come home spend the New Year, what thing gets him to come. Since planted coffee beans, li Kun is annual the Spring Festival is being basked in pass in the factory.
The coffee beans that Ga farming air basks in pursues / Yuan Jingying
March is Li Kun most expect also most the season of perturbed. Those who expect is investment of a year will be in become results right now, of perturbed is price of general Er coffee is low in last few years fan, every kilograms have more than 10 yuan only, was 2011 when fastigium 3 into many. A bottom is done not have in Li Kun heart. In March a day of the middle ten days of a month, li Kun and familiar driver make good call ahead of schedule, the car of coffee beans drive that assembling 20 bags of gross weight to make an appointment with 1400 kilograms heads for astral Buck monitoring point 1 hour.
Arrived astral Buck monitoring point, li Kun queues up adroitly, discharging, sampling observation, await an outcome. This is coffee in trading important one annulus, the check mark accurate gift that the coffee beans that Ga farming plants passed to buy business only sells smoothly piece. Leave midday time, li Kun is informed of his coffee the beans is unqualified. The coffee beans that there is a Ga farming only in 46 Ga farming by collection, li Kun feels inequitable.
"Smooth that day truckage spent 220 yuan, we wait even daylong. " with what Li Kun is the same as a village Ga farming Wang Dong says. He is judged to be high grade farmer by the nest for years continuously. Because have hope to oneself coffee beans, wang Dong carried beans of 3 tons of many coffee arrives this year astral Buck monitoring point, did not achieve finally however buy a level, all by rejection.
A Ga farming of local says, astral Buck rose to buy a level this year, "Think the price that uses common beans closes high grade beans. "Think the price that uses common beans closes high grade beans..
Current, coffee beans can be divided roughly it is 3 kinds, beans of beans of common business coffee, coffee of high grade commodity and beans of high-quality goods coffee. Price of beans of coffee of common this year business is in 10 yuan / kilogram - 15 yuan / kilogram between, beans of high-quality goods coffee is in 50 yuan / kilogram reach about a hundred yuan / kilogram differ, and beans of high grade coffee is in both between.
To buying standard issue, astral Buck responds to company of AI finance and economics to say, its purchase a standard is all the time " high price for good quality " . The data that astral Buck provides shows, the companionate footmark that comes to center of support of cropper of the coffee austral astral Ba Keyun 5 years spreads all over the field alley end of Yunnan coffee farm, farm of more than 1200 coffee passed C.A.F.E. Practices attestation.
In Pu Er coffee beans trades on the market, in the past tens of year, the biggest purchasing business is nest of business of production of fast dissolve coffee all the time, for the most part the coffee beans of Ga farming is to sell a nest. Nevertheless, annual the nest purchases an amount finite, and beans of general Er coffee puts an amount much, sale channel is little, accordingly Ga farming people must go looking for other sale channel. However, channel of news of Ga farming itself is narrow, price of beans of together with coffee is low fan, it is not easy to should search new channel.
Local Ga farming say, trafficker of beans of a few coffee reduced coffee beans to purchase an amount this year, trafficker of beans of another some of coffee takes the chance low " store up goods " . Coffee belongs to futures, price float is big. The resell when the coffee such as the chamber of commerce of coffee beans commerce of store up goods rises in price goes out, but Ga farming people do not wait apparently.
Astral Ba Keceng is Ga farming people hope. Inn of door of coffee of national head home was in astral Ba Kezhong last year general Er practice, after information is released, local Ga farming people the channel that feels much to the portion sells coffee beans. But factual proof, the door that wants to knock astral Buck is not easy.
In Pu Er, coffee at present has become bad to do the business. Because coffee beans is begged for be more than, buy the price to go up not to go, and Ga farming cultivates cost, labour cost every year to be in climb tall.
"Do not think kind of coffee beans. " Li Kun is helpless ground say. When leisure, li Kun can sell the vegetable allowance such as wild honey, bamboo shoot housekeeping money, alleviate angst. Wang Dong decides to insist a few years to look again. The nest purchases an amount in general Er place big, because of this, of the nest buy price a bit low. Fortunately, wang Dong is a nest high grade farmer, wang Dong can win certain award every year, there are hundreds yuan nowadays, excel a little without, there ever are on 1000 yuan when conditions is good.
"How can you do? " Wang Dong asks in reply. Of coffee tree breed period at least 3 years, blossom and bear fruit the 4th year, pay for years just have get one's own back since this year. Kind tea also not likely is a good idea. Tea tree time is longer tea price is higher, new tea tree does not sell good price.
02
Coffee enters specific time of Pu Er to already cannot be taken an examination of.
According to legend, go up century 339 time, be like,a missionary took a fancy to the four seasons spring Pu Er, bury beans of the first coffee mouth of a certain village. Acting 1950, miniature coffee beans is cultivated appear on this land. The coffee collaboration item that China introduced from international 1986 falls child Yunnan. 1988 Er of general of nest chip in, coffee breath of Pu Er gradually thick rise.
Arrive from this year 2010, rise steadily as coffee beans price, coffee beans cultivates tide to sweep across Pu Er, become the poineering runway of local, ga farming in order to break up of times add fast be born. Jiang Yuntao of boss of coffee of liver mosses rice is among them one of. 2008, the friend invites Jiang Yuntao to be planted together coffee beans, he refused. After a year, he did not keep back, still buy the ground to plant removed coffee beans.
Coffee business is very good in those days do, the coffee beans that has planted is exported directly abroad, the biggest purchasing business is a nest, it is international trade business next. As time passes, periphery of general Er urban district formed an industrial district, collecting knead dough of processing factory of of all kinds coffee to wait to the cafes that purchases business. Factory of nest general Er row among them.
The nest pursues in the coffee plant of general Er city / Yuan Jingying
Go into business does not have a few years, jiang Yuntao received the Gaoguang hour of general Er coffee. 2011, beans of general Er coffee buys price highest violent wind rises reach 40 yuan / kilogram, than 2009 19.7 yuan / kilogram bought valence to break up one time. Ga farming people earn basin full earthen bowl is full.
A Ga farming is recollected, go in one's childhood go to market, what have in the pocket is not cash however coffee beans, there should be beans of a bag of coffee to dare leave eating house only in bag. That year, one is planted the Ga of 40 mus of coffee farming the gross income that can gain many yuan 10.
More and more the person delivers investment view to Pu Er. In August 2011, pu Er of astral Ba Kehe is large the love Ni that coffee beans produces one of business is manorial establish a star together coffee of Ba Keai Ni (Yunnan) limited company; In December 2012, center of support of cropper of first coffee of Asia of Buck general puts the bit in Yunnan general Er; 2013, seesaw of brand of high-quality goods coffee is established " 10 years Yunnan plans " ; In October 2014, yunnan established coffee to trade center.
However, coffee belongs to futures commodity. The characteristic of futures is price wave motion amount of supply and demand is big, large, the appraisal standard of standardization and grader are made, have stronger investment property again. New York built coffee exchange 1882, the daily coffee that sow a newspaper clinchs a deal the price. Coffee buys business to Ga farming the meeting when buying bean is adjusted in time according to quoting that day.
Research center of wheat grand coffee direct Zuo explanation, yunnan coffee belongs to Alabika to plant, the price follows option market of new York coffee " C price " (price of international coffee futures) and fluctuant. The coffee variety that Yunnan grows Mu of the 99% the base of a fruit that it is card, gust is general, ga of together with Yunnan farming, the integral treatment level that handles a works is low, bring about a flaw more apparent, it is exclusive price of a coffee produces a division under the Alabika of futures price.
The of all kinds gust that coffee beans handles a likelihood to arise through different treatment pursues / Yuan Jingying
2012, with on one year fastigium photograph is compared, beans of general Er coffee buys price already shrink approach an in part. This year, when the nest buys Ji Ting to stop, ga farming people queue up in its doorway in succession. A Ga farming is very lucky, queue up 5 days to sell 100 tons of coffee the beans eventually, buy valence to be 22.5 yuan / kilogram. Not lucky Ga farming, can look at coffee beans keep long in stock to be in the home helplessly only.
2013, the case is further abominable, coffee beans price continues to drop reach every kilograms ten yuan, approach cost price, that year general Er coffee cultivates cost to already rose to about 14.67 yuan / kilogram. This one low confuse the current situation to continue all the time up to now.
Jiang Yuntao relied on to cultivate coffee beans to be able to gain hundred thousands of yuan profit 2009, annual nowadays Jiang Yuntao should spend 400 thousand yuan to cultivate coffee beans, calculate go up to be expended artificially, cost is adjacent 800 thousand - 900 thousand yuan. Jiang Yuntao buys valence to calculate roughly according to the coffee beans with current nest, want deficit every year ten yuan.
Join the friend that cultivates main forces one year earlier than Jiang Yuntao, the business is bigger than Jiang Yuntao, painedder than him also. The friend that coffee group exits beside Jiang Yuntao is increasing.
Love Li Guanting of sagacious cafes merchant, this year 31 years old, speak bluntly counted group of year of general Er coffee in the past is " bad money drives out fine money " . He and coffee contact are old, father joins a nest that 9 years old years in him, opened firm of domestic coffee improvement trade again later. Below be influenced by what one constantly sees and hears, li Guanting is very familiar to coffee commerce.
He says, group of general Er coffee disobeys the incident of contracted spirit to emerge in endlessly, if mix into of beans of will inferior coffee arrives in beans of high grade coffee, bring about trafficker people not dare large-scale purchase beans of Pu Er coffee. Market of adscititious international coffee is begged for be more than, coffee price is low fan, cause Pu Er finally coffee beans is slow-moving.
Relevant controller tells AI finance and economics the company even coffee, the probability that will not 3 years use even coffee Yunnan coffee beans is not big. From 2018 four quarters rise, produce even coffee the A rabbi from African Ethiopia to block coffee beans with a kind only, award of Ceng Huo of this coffee beans.
"Very regretful, yunnan coffee instantly has not established the brand that has his. " company of finance and economics of Dong Zuo dui AI says. The Yu Yunna of rise to power and position of wheat grand coffee that he is in, left in Kunming 2010 gave store of the first door. After this, wheat grand coffee moves headquarters consummate sea, self-supporting commerce giving birth to a beans, build bake plant oneself, established coffee institute. At present Yunnan coffee beans occupies whole of wheat grand coffee to purchase the 15%-20% of the quantity to control.
Current, for the coffee industry that lives to still trying hard in Yunnan for the most part, transition extremely urgent.
03
The eye sees do not come since coffee beans price, jiang Yuntao decided to let go 2018 one rich. He built coffee processing factory, handle bake everything needed is ready from coffee beans, this is for the word that uses Jiang Yuntao " ego is digested " . Jiang Yuntao still opened domestic cafes, it is near nest factory.
Jiang Yuntao's cafes pursues / Yuan Jingying
Originally more than 10 yuan / kilogram coffee beans machines epigenesis in bake beans of coffee of high grade commerce, the bean price of raciness can amount to 779 yuan / kilogram. Usually, the evaluation mark of common business beans is controlled in 70 minutes, beans of coffee of high grade commodity is controlled in 80 minutes, 85-86 cent is beans of high-quality goods coffee.
Make coffee a few years this, jiang Yuntao knew many coffee to purchase business, generation to machine mill-owner, some factories are near Jiang Yuntao cafes. Rely on original person arteries and veins to concern, jiang Yuntao tries to be explored downstream toward coffee industry. His associate with carbonado outside a few provinces earth up business and purchase business. Prohibit as a result of Chinese part city coffee plant bake, a few provincial suppliers can put money in Jiang Yuntao's storage first, jiang Yuntao can gain income of a few storage accordingly.
The plant of coffee of awn wood tree that Jiang Yuntao makes Dong Zhen in county of Jiangchen of general Er city pursues / suffer the person that visit to offer
Even if is such, jiang Yuntao's heart still is being hanged, coffee ground still is having a deficit, coffee cultivated the door to burn the business of money, he still can not hold to certainly how long.
Coffee cultivated Shang Chenchen to choose another routes: High-quality goods coffee. Chen Chen's husband took next place to cultivate coffee together 2011. Ditch, electrify, water, provide housing for the worker, chen Chen's couple is thrown for this many. Coffee city setting is angry at that time nevertheless, chen Chen did not think more.
The story of after this is same, chen Chen also encountered coffee price low confused predicament. Worker wages of a day rises to from 50 yuan of violent wind 2011 100 yuan of nowadays, labour cost is occupied than be as high as 2/3.
Chen Chen decided to try the last time 2018, turn do beans of high-quality goods coffee. If fail, chen Chen crosses coffee land afresh, change oily fruit of bull kept for covering. Fortunately, 2018/2019 year crop of beans of Chen Chen coffee is good, coffee beans evaluates a mark more than 85 minutes. She prepares to continue to plant this year coffee sees the effect.
Jiang Yuntao does not wish however beans of commerce of redo high-quality goods. He ever had tried beans of coffee of transition high-quality goods a few years ago. Same beans of a batch of coffee, beans of high-quality goods coffee picks the head only 20% best coffee beanses undertake machining bake, the others is wasted completely.
Choose a bag of 1.5 kilograms coffee beans to want a picture 1 hour artificially / Yuan Jingying
Jiang Yuntao ever also had considered to do beans of high-quality goods coffee and beans of high grade commerce at the same time, but of beans of high-quality goods coffee picked, classification, the more meticulous Yan Ke that handles treatment, only should a link makes mistake meet fail to build a mound for want of one final basket of earth-fall short of success for lack of a final effort, because this needs cost of devoted and more manpower and capital. This is major processing factory of Ga farming, small coffee bears not to rise.
Also coffee has a fever friend cut the coffee tree in the home, introduce variety of high-quality goods coffee tree from abroad, but the day is likewise uneasy. "Pu Er is whole now not very of coffee market value is tall, yield of high-quality goods coffee is low, value is reflected do not come out. Plant more miserable more. " Jiang Yuntao says.
What show cruelty slightly is, pu Er in tide of this coffee transition, the much that can complete transition is the Ga that fixed capital is accumulated farming. Deficit of labour cost, transition period the ready money that need assumes flows and of appliance of of all kinds fertilizer, treatment purchase cannot leave money.
04
The hope of general Er coffee is probably on youth body.
2015, the choice after the 90 plum after go to the United States to study abroad returns country successive family property. In those days, the father of plum already built good coffee delicacy to handle a works if really in door mouth, bask in factory, exuviate factory to wait. The Er that answer general before long, the coffee that plum replaced father to attend association of industry of coffee of Er of a general to hold grooms course.
With much Ga farming is same, had not drunk the coffee that oneself plants to the plum that contacts coffee greatly as a child. Groom that class, she knows how to taste ancient bronze mirror for the first time a cup of coffee. After this, plum and coffee association and coffee division are familiar with each passing day. Coffee course controller values the situation of her home, tell her, she can avoid cost attend a lecture, the condition is the ground that provides a student to attend class.
The much in these students is a youth, with coffee division, cafe house advocate, coffee trafficker is in the majority. They can carry bit of plum a few skill about coffee, but more important is the business that brought for plum and course of study inside famous degree. Plum answers the 2nd year of Pu Er, seesaw of brand of high-quality goods coffee comes to plum home, issued the order of a beans of 4 tons of coffee.
The coffee beans bleachery of plum home pursues / Yuan Jingying
Older generation can see on plum body what Ga farming does not have is idiosyncratic. She knows very well share of market of coffee of whole Yunnan high-quality goods has 1% only, transition way is long; Know how to taste ancient bronze mirror the stand or fall of a cup of coffee, improve reversely from this cultivate, the process of insolation.
Plum understands the power of the network. Plum father registered trademark of coffee of big construct a canal 2004, plum puts coffee tax the sale on treasure, small letter. Cleaning out treasure basically is wholesale sale, small letter is support acquaintance fission and travel from media. These a few years, plum feels individual the trend in the order on small letter is increasingly clear, they come from and other places of Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu. Without middleman, the profit of plum is more, also can give Ga farming taller buy price.
Ga farming people the coffee beans brand that starts oneself pursues / Yuan Jingying
"Market of general Er coffee is in inequitable condition for a long time, labour cost year after year rises, market taste is more and more captious however, want more the bean of high quality, but buy the price low. I feel us this generation youth is necessary to come back to make a change. " plum says.
Li Guanting also is making a change. He says frankly, one of purposes that open cafe are to think intuitionistic statistical market and consumer are right the be fond of of coffee, improve bean next. This is old generation the thing that Ga farming is done rarely. Li Guanting returns specially to pay cost to invite photography group boat to take field of general Er coffee, in order to publicizes general Er coffee.
These young coffee practitioner still are teaching place Ga farming improvement coffee cultivates skill. Plum tells Ga farming people when to pluck coffee Xian Guo most the demand that accords with high-quality goods coffee, li Guanting suggests a mu of cropland is not planted full 300 coffee tree, kind 250 coffee tree, the rest space is planted fruiter. Coffee tree sunshade can is after waiting for a fruiter to grow, still can fight insect pest.
The transition labour pains of general Er coffee period meeting is very lengthy, but start footfall of place of total have an easy time.
A few farmers send a hope to trade at coffee center. They hope coffee trades the center can mature as soon as possible, farmer of systematization ground butt joint and trafficker. Such farmer can be at ease kind of coffee beans, trafficker also can obtain the coffee beans that quality assures.
Sufferred again 2019 when inviting the commissioner that holds the position of Yunnan to give birth to fabaceous contest, dong Zuo jiao the gust of Yunnan coffee behaved whole to rise than last year this year is very much, in the local color that coffee of an Ethiopia, Kenya, Colombia can show under different processing method. Direct the progress that Zuo values coffee of Yunnan high-quality goods, nevertheless this needs the joint efforts of look forward to of numerous and large Ga.
Interview draw near end, li Guanting talks about culture of the west in rising. He says coffee belongs to the west, tea belongs to east. Pu Er holds coffee and tea concurrently both, why cannot make a lucky land?
(requirement of the person that merit is visited, the Li Kun in article, Wang Dong, Chen Chen is alias)
