Original title: 6 journey, 6 gust, of a German savor " Chinese flavour "
China is expensive for world cate ancient country, always " civilian it is a day in order to feed " regard axiom as, eat delicious do not calculate extravagant and dissipated, stress life quality however. Gather a crowd gluttonous of course more commendable, cate is the bridge of friendship.
Came 100000 the Chinese knows well greatly this, so that cate became the calling card of Chinese culture, thoughout the history countless foreigners also come to China because of curious and Oriental cate one dug unexpectedly, the person that there is no lack of to encircle pink quickly. German Makesi Henige comes to China already more than 20 years, marry with Chinese female and bear children, live in the Laofang of Shanghai rainbow mouth, push flavour of the Chinese driveway that opens the door to be able to see smoke internal heat is dye-in-the-wood, China and Chinese chat jokingly.
Old Beijing bittern boils IC data chart
Search cate all the way in him, visit friend to push cup change the course of small cup in the center, he " take Chinese course like a sociologist in that way " , the custom that Chinese dish and Chinese have a meal, mode that cook, , be pared by reel off raw silk from cocoons chrysalis, one is shown come out. He believes the Chinese's culture is traditional, believe place of him saw with one's own eyes sees with personally place is tasted more. Etiquette of it doesn't matter can disturb Ma Ke to savour Chinese dish, even if is eating balloonfish, when eating a snake, he is terrifying also over- , the result is good food wears bowel to pass however, guest and host is all happy. In Ma Ke's eye, eating also is society of a vertical be linked together the sequence of thought of each estate. Appearance broads toward the emperor before coming on, republican founder Mao Zedong, Zhou En comes, the dweller of common market alley, faker, farmer that abstains innovation dish, taxi driver that knows to be able to eat to be tasted absolutely where comes below, wander between Jiashangzhong, as if the epicure outside place oneself thing, feed criticize a person, still have seasoned professional cook people, qualified station comes out to prove the delicious, method that makes some food has some kind of thing its excellent point.
China feeds the secret of culture, ma Ke also is journey, whole journey 6 times with this fact of 8000 kilometers " 6 gust " give announce in the round.
His " head path gust " the relation of the course that takes to establish a body with the Chinese namely. The Chinese taste of far and near is different, with Chinese vast land each area have environment of other physical geography to concern completely, also concern with the decides a person disposition of local clime and economic condition and lifestyle. And same point depends on, no matter reside where personally, whether does ancestors migrate, chinese very care about the luck to eat sth delicious, pay attention to preserve one's health, know enjoy, it is happiness in order to had eaten, it is love in order to make domestic person eats good. The Chinese of each district also has specific method, go accepting, change, the use method that innovation feeds capable person. Ask a banquet through writing a friend, ma Ke also is worn the kindness in the friendship of guest and host of Mo Yuzhong compatriots and mischievous, brother of home of Shanghai friend week asks him to arrive home in have a meal, wine crosses 3 make one's rounds, should pull a two-stinted bowed instrument with a lower register than Jingo to often sing song of Kunqu opera, revolution, Shanghai, let him open an eye indeed.
The travel of Beijing, facilitated his " 2 gust " , dug the relation of cooking and politics. Take this job but can small, a roast duck on state banquet can promote Sino-US relation, the boiler of one honour copper in alley can strengthen friend feeling. Steamed stuffed bun, dumpling, bittern is boiled, roast duck, what arrive to need ability of platoon leader team to eat at the moment from distant historical fokelore is hot small shop, chinese cate has specific creation without an other place reason and evolve into course endlessly.
Also have but, 108 indicative satisfactory Man Hanquan banquet, ma Ke and friend took a 14 path course extremely brief edition, the aftertaste not beautiful. "Palace door displays a fish " weever is eating to resemble refrigerant, "Shuang Zhen gathers up venison " the camel hoof in insipid, so-called do with the peacock that in Cheng Denong Zhuang Li raises technically " flesh of Man Hankong sparrow " too be bored with. Ma Ke is summed up, "Owe beautiful besides chef craft, outside pawn of businessman benefit word, cookbook not speak in detail also is one of reasons. " the distinctive glamour that fails to taste royal cate.
Man Hanquan banquet (stone carving answer is engraved edition) IC data chart
When the train below rumble of empty stomach of the station austral Beijing, do not have a law to eat breakfast of characteristic Beijing type immediately however, also let Ma Ke be criticized one time to modern city. He feels to did not let a tourist experience the cafeteria of old Beijing culture, resemble letting a tourist be experienced " Beijing welcomes you " . See wear of all kinds to subdue expressionless staff member, have however " very safe move " .
In Sichuan and Chongqing, ma Ke hallooes hot the taste mark that is China earth develop a school of one's own, this the 3rd fierce " hemp hot creed " , it is contemporary person pressure not only the life is inseparable, its are a broad and profound plain dish world more rear. His amid saw Chinese essence is mixed at studying the indefatigable spirit of creation, total somebody is thinking method makes a new food, nonexistent accurate cookbook, always have " right amount " etc can operate a space. It is no matter hemp eats on the train the young couple of hot convenient side, still be the chaffy dish inn with visible everywhere, ma Ke also personally savor hot it is a kind of stimulation, a kind of addiction, one kind releases the drug of pressure, skin charm, symbolic also move has the future of vigor extremely.
Chicken of chicken of saliva of the spring austral Chongqing, hot pepper of song happy hill, plain change area people idea tries pattern. IC data pursues
Return Changjiang Delta, the Su Cai of fine carve of carve of the 4th essence makes Ma Keping static undoubtedly peacefully come down, and the culture feelings of cate place token however dense has taste. His record and narrate hold in Suzhou " cate 18 arhat " large party, suffer cultural worker of each epicure that before inviting, will dine together, cate to show its each can, than grade, also compare the mining of pair of cate culture. Before view street eunuch manages the building that get a month, chairman of Hua Yonggen of Suzhou cooking association and inscription on pottery of fete of general manager of Jin Hong of the Loulin that get a month gem, the Jiang Zhehu epicure such as blame of Liu Xian, Shen Hong, feed criticize Great Master of the home, hutch art and medium greatly. Epicure people taste at the same time too crab of Di Mi of hoof of sweet crisp cook over a slow fire, Yang embraces shelled fresh shrimps of snail of lake green jade, Huang Ni the Suzhou name dish such as clear soup of lung of Zuo of home of sword, stone, still feed material, table at the same time formal even epicure and bookman after all who more understand eat, fervent comment on.
Dish of Su Cai name, data of China of vision of large meatball of crab meat of boiled in clear soup pursues
The chairman Hua Yonggen of Suzhou cooking association took Ma Ke to ramble food market, arrive from vegetable the river is little, what revealed a Chinese to be spent to feeding material delicacy to him all the way is exquisite. Have season, changjiang Delta dish is paid attention to most. Good friend Xie Fang takes him to take lunar alcoholic drink, course having a boat, pointed out cate and poetic picture, natural correlation.
The bravery soul that Na Yuemei feeds by Ma Ke classify of the five flavors " the world is edible " , he thinks to be in courageous and resolute with courage besides, the Guangzhou of cate heaven also has worth while and thoughtful " the seamy side " , the market is made the same score in the Guangzhou Qing Dynasty of famed far and near. Foreign tourist gathers together saw soul-stirring " kill unripe " the spot, they are screaming at the same time, film at the same time in the eye " marvellous spectacle " . Infante of general of British humble benefit has said, "Of 4 legs besides the table, of long wing besides the plane, of water middle reaches besides submarine, can make dish of Chinese food of Cantonese. " too much foreigner knows whats dare eat the Chinese, because,be Guangdong. Although spoke of an animal protecting a problem, but Ma Ke more those who care about is, ask oneself to have anguine person, it is to want to let him what eat after all. "Too history 5 snakes a thick soup " it is the legend course that does not attend in cookbook, by Na Yue Jiang Kongyan of Mingshi, big trader is invented, because Chinese cookbook is not made clear all along, very bad former taste reappears. Ask Ma Ke to eat the Laoliu of a thick soup, the Hou old hutch that gets house of flavour following a snake is discussing mouthfeel ability to be done, let mark savor unforgettable legend.
Too history chart of data of IC of 5 snakes a thick soup
Of course, of dish of another name for Guangdong Province attractive because reflected person of another name for Guangdong Province,still pay attention to the preserve one's health, tradition that values clan. Taking early tea is such more, hear audition domestic topic from desk of tea building adjacent, "Grandson generation takes an examination of an university, house price is high unusual, the Germany that buys newly installs entrance car to have great advantage formerly " was recorded in detail by mark come down.
Be in finally Taiwan, follow the Ma Ke that Shu Guozhi has whole city all the way, concise was become finally very wonderful also however last flavour -- " fastfood big flavour " . From vessel peaceful abundant small basket bag and face of fried bean sauce, to steamed stuffed bun of meaning of peace and happiness of lowing city district, Jin Hua street carbon bakes street of sesame seed cake, Guiyang Yong Fubing cream... two people ramble all the way eat ramble eat, shu Guozhi feels contemporary to the person understands only eat not to know oneself to start work do, more and more consume consummate creed, this word horse also can be to hear the bottom of one's heart in. Such fastfood brigade also is the fun of the person that free gad was enjoyed by Rangmakeche, experienced another amorous feelings of Taipei. Final Shu Guozhi strolls to take Ma Ke to lad playwrite in Home Feng Guangyuan, guest and host is tasted together had alcoholic drink. Taiwan cate can reflect the shirt-sleeve ability of Chinese meal most, horse of no less than can be analysed, "Grow the offspring in globalization tide people conceive local circumstances greatly in that way like father generation no longer. Dietary border is more and more ambiguous.
Ma Ke still paid homage to former residence of hall of Taipei forest language, greeted this cherishs the life art Great Master of little interest. Lin Yutang is gone after " happy work, pass comfortably " , ma Ke says he discovers " there always is an a bottomless pit that the name is abdomen by the side of the animal. This a bottomless pit ever affected us whole culture. " eating is a petty cut, derivative and can rich topic. Resemble Ma Ke look for along with feeling in that way, people talks every time eat eloquent, the place of verbal cease, it is good that the heart is installed.
Data of IC of former residence of hall of Taipei forest language pursues
(picture origin is insurgent news and network)
