If a kind of flavour can become all corners of the country oneself, it is fervent, ache again, dazzle looks divine confusing, make person get into the habit, make a person unwell again, it has much beauty, have much trouble, it has many to guard, have much abandon, it is OK be eaten together with rice or bread is become essay, can become a full member again do room, it is OK hot artful, yike is simple and honest, somebody loves it, somebody hates it, its since is alone, also be giant, it is chili.
1
The most country of chili is occupational China, this kind of flavour attacks a town summary stockaded village, a few years short, include not very has hot Beijing and coastal area before, the street nowadays also sees everywhere red, the business is hot is those have hot dining room, eat hot become show learn. About the aggressive sex of chili and the reason that circulate, I had heard many planting view: 1, a lot of places are damp, eat a large number of chili is OK perspiring, resist damp; 2, chili conduces to the flavour that masks the itself that feed capable person, so numerous in chili is used in great quantities in the dining-room of low spending; 3, more and more cities become emigrant city, for instance and other places of Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, the youth that has hot province from the tradition in great quantities eat hot tradition to bring these cities, make eat hot make trend; 4, chili is not a kind of flavour, however a kind of touch, the keenly feel that the tip of the tongue is flogged, chili element can be stimulated adrenal, addiction making a person...
The most country of chili is occupational China, a lot of businesses are hot is those have hot dining room
A variety of views, it seems that very reasonable, but the most difficult question in still solving my heart: Is chili how to make the taste that has national sex from a kind of foreign provision? Is its transmission way how? China has hot all corners of the country in, circulating again what kind of wonderful fokelore?
2
This need from speak of 400 years ago.
Tall Lian of Ming Daiwen's person has written treatise of a preserve one's health " abide by gives birth to 8 annotation " , concern the account at chili among them: "Time any of several hot spice plants is fascicular, bai Hua, guo Yan is like head of bald writing brush, taste hot expression is red, very considerable " . After inquiring a lot of data, this is the earliest to chili account in Chinese document data almost. The time of print and publish of this book is 1591.
The flower of chili is white
Await in those days, chili appears as a kind of ornamental plant, edible of and rather than. After a few years, shang Xianzu was created " peony wells balanced " , be in " peony booth. Dark is sentenced " in one chapter, also mentioned chili flower: "Chinese trumpet creeper. Yang Zhuang's . Chili is beautiful. Heat up shade narrow. Have a smile on one's face flower. Affection should come. Gong Kui is spent... " this paragraph of beautiful god is as antistrophic as what sentence an official, it is the experience that will compare lifetime of a woman with all sorts of flowers, from appointment, love, betrothal, marry, bridal chamber, parturient, till consenescence? ? Chili is beautiful, having chic sexual interest, representing " sex " .
1591, chili appears as a kind of ornamental plant, edible of and rather than
And be in contemporaneous in south China, still have no the account about chili. Be in earlier China, adjust acrimony olfactory feeds capable person basically is 3 kinds: Chinese prickly ash, ginger, the fruit of medicinal cornal. Week of the Western Jin Dynasty is in (240-299) compose " clime is written down " in, have " any of several hot spice plants, , Jiang Wei 3 sweet, criterion since ancient times still. " here " " it is the fruit of medicinal cornal. Li Shizhen " detailed outline of a book on Chinese medicine " in account: "Feed the fruit of medicinal cornal namely child also, sichuan person breathes out for person of Ai Zi, Hunan for hot pepper. " the fruit of medicinal cornal is chili before coming to China, people gets bitter taste feed capable person. Feed the fruit of medicinal cornal to had disappeared almost nowadays disappear, more it is the cornel that serves as a medicinal material. Feed the fruit of medicinal cornal to disappear in the daily life of people, very big reason is take trouble, " detailed outline of a book on Chinese medicine " in say: "Feed the fruit of medicinal cornal, flavour laborious and suffering, aborigines will be collected in August, pound filter to take juice, become into lime agitate, the name is Ai You, yi Yue hot rice is oily. Taste is bitter, use into food. Use into food..
And chili is how to land area of Chinese Changjiang Delta, and the chili fancy suiting that becomes bookman enjoy? This should speak of from an earlier person again, this person is: Columbus.
Chili returns Spain as the merchantman of Columbus from this, air plant
1492, columbus is in what shellfish of Sha of Spanish queen Yi draws generation to aid financially below, began the brigade of nautical big discovery. He is taking the letter of credence that gives India monarch and Chinese emperor, one direction on the west, preparation goes be full of the India of flavor and gold, accident however discovered the New World-the Americas, discovered America. A lot of feeding material brings back in travelling that time, for instance potato, tomato, chili. Write in Columbus diary: "What there is a kind of red here is peppery, crop is very big, be produced every year but replete 50 merchantman. No matter what the person here eats to want to put it, otherwise not feel like eating goes, allegedly it still is beneficial to health. " in fact, be in America mainland, people cultivates chili to had had the history of a few chiliad, it from regional feed material to feed capable person to a world-class, need this is dim encounter medium.
Write in Columbus diary: What there is kind of red here is peppery, no matter what the person here eats to want to put it, otherwise not feel like eating goes, allegedly it still is beneficial to health.
Chili returns Spain as the merchantman of Columbus from this, air plant, and little scope begins in Europe travel, 1526, chili transmits Italy, 1548, chili comes to England again. With European right peppery wait for flavor scramble for sth to differ, under the circumstances, chili also is a kind of ornament merely in European food, be not the foundation that is big range edible to feed capable person.
Next in a few years, as the development of trade, chili passes an Asia through sea route, the earliest it is Ma Liujia, it is Chinese the eastpart part next coastal, japan is in contemporaneous also appeared the account about chili, even earlier than China even. Someone says, chili will to Chinese method have two, it is maritime road, it is additionally western the Silk Road, from which inferior pass inland, I pass a variety of data inquiry, "The Silk Road says western " it is to guess merely, do not have the data of historical ancient codes and records already, also do not have objective archaeology discovery, cannot take basically.
Chili passes an Asia through sea route, the earliest it is Ma Liujia, it is Chinese the eastpart part next coastal
Bright end period, changjiang Delta rich and popular, the ground of rich and popular, pay attention to food, the wind in those days model be it is the United States with raw ingredient, any cooking concepts feed material raw ingredient to be ingenious with reflecting. From mouthfeel, with sweet for expensive, sweet be more the taste that reflects the status. Even if arrives now, people mentions Changjiang Delta flavor, often the first impression is sweet. Hot nature cannot go up mesa, the flavour of this kind of vivid hot stimulation is broken cannot ascend mesa, even if,hold in cooking the least bit chair.
So the issue came, is chili how to view and admire sexual plant to make the indispensable taste on people table from a kind? Chili is how to pass China's broad southwest from Changjiang Delta piece area, how is Sichuan of Guizhou of Yunnan of Hunan Hubei Jiangxi to make the land with hot be addicted to?
Guizhou chili
3
Avery kind of feeds capable person gain ground, olfactory of avery kind of is migratory, originate the person's flight and be in harmony are collected. If do not see alimental change from the angle of changes of economy, politics, times, like a fruitless approach.
In a few years when appear the earliest after literal account of the Chinese in chili, a lot of things produced on Chinese earth. Li Zicheng uprose, zhang Xianzhong also uprose, ming Dynasty is ruined, wu Sangui surrendered, qing Chaojian stood, fine decided 3 massacre... go on an expedition of in successive years, dynasty alternate, common people is the bitterest, bones of the dead shows Yu Ye, a thousand li does not have crow.
The time is hard, natural and man-made disaster, in the day of poverty-stricken, the magical action of chili is sent eventually power. Chili is a kind of magical plant, the earthy seedling of Guizhou " with chili acting salt " , salt is very precious, use in the home at ordinary times do not rise, the flavour with stimulating chili, have content again enough much vitamin C, can take the place of salt; Time of people living on the frontiers is hard, can make a living with potherb only, potherb often has agonized taste, issue pharynx hard, mix with chili, can mask agonized, make potherb also has grow to have taste; Food is put long, often corruption changes flavour, even if feeds capable person not fresh, with chili an edible, also can issue pharynx constrainedly; Chili has the body calorific and sudoriferous, feeling making a person is warm, can weather the night of bitter cold...
Very few somebody can like to go up for the first time piquancy, after was used to this flavor, ability can experience the happiness of piquancy slowly
In the five flavors, chili is the flavor that need is learned. The person likes natively sweet, of mom galactic also be sweet, because sweet the delegate is safe; The person needs salt, salinity can adjust the moisture inside human body is balanced, carry humoral normal movement. And person first time eats hot when, often be by so hot that drivel tear flows together, very few somebody can like to go up for the first time piquancy, but after was used to this flavor, ability can experience the happiness of piquancy slowly.
With chili circulate big event that having close correlation is: Lake An Tianchuan. This is the most large-scale crowd on Chinese history migratory one of, at the beginning of Cong Qingchao year begin, lasted hundreds years all the time. Of population migratory brought new species and new consuetudinary, at all times and in all over the world, in every case is culture art develop, the place that cate collects, it is different and phyletic gather together, multivariate the area with fascicular culture, a kind of new culture is formed in collision.
Hunan chili
Of chili at Sichuan, be in namely multivariate a kind of when form in the collision of culture new culture. In fact, in Sichuan, people has hot history to imagine than people medium a lot of shorter. Qianlong of quiet day of period of quiet day Qianlong year a Li Huanan compose, its child Li Diaoyuan arranges Fu Zi " wake to be recorded field " , it is the reflects plain dish history the earliest technical work that can see at present, can find in the book " scatter with face of any of several hot spice plants " model of written characters, but I guess this is face of Chinese prickly ash, face of chili of and rather than. Between Chi Zhiqing Jia Qingnian, sichuan county annals only then the record that sees plant hot pepper. Fine path year, chuanxide area ability is general plant hot pepper this kind is vegetable.
Face of Chinese prickly ash
Even if is in clear at the beginning of end civilian, eat hot also be one does not appear on the stage the thing of the face, the feudal official dish at that time also is abiding by Shang Benwei have a way. Until go up century 80 time, hemp hot flavor begins to act wilfully, spread everywhere to great river north and south, plain dish is mixed hemp is hot delimited equal-sign, so that think now,ate a not hot plain food to become extravagant hopes. There is dining room of room of one family property to call Deng Ji to feed garden in Shanghai, hua Dong of Deng of hutch of plain dish name restores ancient ways in this extensive make, made a lot of not hot plain food, be being gone up to feed the home by a lot of Shanghai is praise highly very, including the head of Shen Hong blame, old wave, meal that feed the home is etc go up frequenter, just up to now, I had not have gone.
Deng Ji feeds the dish of garden to taste
4
Hot times or advent. If hot transmission also has the branch of new world and old world, so hot new world sets sth afoot at going up century the later period in 80 time, flourishingly at 90 time, erupt at 21 centuries 10 years original, fill however extremely decline, nowadays although piquancy still embraces wholesale numerous, however as mouthfeel estate differentiate clearer and clearer, a lot of people begin pair of chili not quite cold.
1989, laoyang comes to Beijing from Sichuan, opened shop of a plain food, the plain food shop of that moment Beijing is very few. What speak this with me is Xiaoyang, become the son of year of Laoyang. He also is the boss of shop of a plain food, shop of this plain food calls Su Shi wine shop, in the 5 road junction of Beijing, had left 20 old, witnessed whole of 5 road junction promote decline. Collect an area from quiet college, focus the land to tumultuous Han Liu, do poineering work to the Internet nowadays again company supreme headquarters, lofty of Su Shi wine shop is not moved.
The menu of Su Shi wine shop, have above " merchant poplar elder brother " head portrait
Go up century 80 time end, population of Beijing other place is not much, this locality taste likes salty delicacy, incommensurate to chili, have hot person very few. OK and corresponding is, I live in Heibei in one's childhood, have the car Cheng of a hour from Beijing. In my childhood memory, chili is the commonnest having a way is oil of make it chili, appear as the one saucer that flavors on table. I also am without good impression to chili in one's childhood.
Chili is the commonnest having a way is oil of make it chili
In fact, plain dish, Hunan dish wants into Beijing earlier, should arrive early on century 50 time. Wineshop of dining-room of Sichuan restaurant, Qu Yuan, Ma Kai, delicate eyebrows waits gust dining-room a moment to come to Beijing in those days namely. In those days these dish departments come to Beijing is task of a politics, because party and country lead philtrum, have a lot of it is personage of Hunan Sichuan and other places, take the home town course that is less than a tunnel. 1955, mao Zedong is in technically still music garden fete is xenial and advanced general, and the frequenter that Deng Xiaoping also is Sichuan restaurant, the chef of Sichuan restaurant still can be gone to please in leader home go making food. In those days Beijing restaurant also has personally attend to garrison duty of hutch of name of a plain dish, luo Guorong, hutch of name of generation plain dish, the establish person when Yi Zhi, he Long loves to take his course most.
Luo Guorong of hutch of plain dish name
The course of plain dish Hunan of Beijing is taken below the mode of political assume leadership, certainly will cannot form the force of set the prairie ablaze. These became old name nowadays, contain the temperament of the state-owend enterprise, send old old style. Passed changes of a few years, the Hunan food that makes became Beijing mouthfeel with plain dish, much gentle and kind, little hot. Delicate eyebrows wineshop protects name of gallinaceous Ding Cheng to establish wrist with a palace, a lot of Peking Man regard this dish as the level that palace maintains gallinaceous man.
A lot of Peking Man protect the palace of wineshop of high mountain eyebrow gallinaceous dingdong becomes a standard
The Enlightenment of the hot all corners of the country of real new world also is to accompanying a huge population migratory. In 30 years after reforming and opening, also be urban and rural n duality opposes gradually 30 years of untie a person, the An Tianchuan that compare a lake's more swift and violent emigrant tide happens in Chinese earth. The Beijing that lives with me is exemple, according to official figure, end Beijing often lived 2014 population mouth of bearer of twenty-one million five hundred and sixteen thousand China and foreign countries 8.187 million. Actually I suspect to this number, dimensions of Beijing instant population should be in 40 million the left and right sides, mouth of bearer of its China and foreign countries should be 3 times of Peking Man more alleged.
The big city there's no one who doesn't or isn't such as Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen is such, the population that comes from countrywide each district gathers in the city, will naturally affect general mouthfeel of the city.
The popular fashion of Beijing folk cate often changes a few years, street of a round-mouthed food vessel with two or four loop handles is the vane of Beijing folk cate, this street likes the T stand that China eats and drink.
Street of a round-mouthed food vessel with two or four loop handles is the vane of Beijing folk cate
90 time metaphase once popularity crosses hotpot of Henan stew in soy sauce, period of time is fish of pickled Chinese cabbage later, arrived around began 2000 temporarily inapproachable water boils piscine times, a dish helped sb to fulfill his wishes hot temptation of boiling fish countryside and hemp. It is the times of hemp hot crayfish next, the market of a round-mouthed food vessel with two or four loop handles of hot force linger with small hemp up to now. Arrived 2005 around, another hemp is hot the force of sweet boiler is violent will raid, for a short while, beijing ave lane is hemp hot sweet pot. Be in a few times in big percussive clearance, in succession the miniature concussion that flourishing crosses still has hot bullfrog of head of the duck neck with hot hemp, duck, Mao Xiewang, grilled fish, hemp... these are prosperous temporarily. Later, hot all corners of the country hold back gave a century to enrol greatly: Chaffy dish. Be in the Beijing before, although Sichuan chaffy dish has many, but often flow at the form, so not pure. Of Peking Man advocate tide or instant-boiled mutton, from 2008 later, the chaffy dish of numerous and authentic tunnel likes spring up all over the place in Beijing, I can list an inn of no less than 50 chaffy dish casually. Nowadays, the level of the chaffy dish inn of Beijing basically is mixed Chongqing difference is very little.
Hemp hot crayfish
With Beijing can see on the civilian cate popularity of one ground from 90 time up to now, the flavour of popularity of almost all folk has deep correlation with chili. Without hot not joyous times arrived eventually.
5
In new century, the flavour of chili why mad pass? This also is the topic that numerous deadbeat loves to discuss very much, exciting addiction says, have alleviate pressure says, still mouthfeel is infected say, unable to decide which is right.
The flavour of chili why mad pass? This also is the topic that numerous deadbeat loves to discuss very much
I had heard a kind of argument, although have a place in order to slant without exception complete, but listen go up train of thought also interesting. In meal in this all corners of the country, famous hutch has a Great Master, however the top that this is pyramid. Industry practitioner is general for, educational rate is not high, of bitter one's previous experience be in the majority, chef goes frequently namely since ancient times, chinese all along has a man of noble character far kitchened state of mind. This decided chef industry is a flow rate is very high and the work with not expensive social class serves industry.
The beautiful need of cate tastes ancient bronze mirror, and a good cate needs cooking more the skill of ingenious and innovation ability. This is not tall to mass education degree, for the chef that does not have experience of too much taste, it is an impossible job almost. Weighing hemp to weigh the dish of hot heavy oil to taste nature is a convenient door. Do not need the technology of soup of too much condole, the knife result that also need not hammer into shape repeatedly, the spirit that does not need too much duration even is clever master, with respect to the cate that can make a heavy taste. What kind of supply nature has what kind of market, be, the plain dish previously also is not hot, the first impression that a lot of people mention plain dish now is hemp hot. Chongqing person produces food of all corners of the country further again, more exquisite heavy taste, do not have a clique without the door, as the relief of hill city, arduous in strive for victory, as much sweep anything away 1000 army.
Valve of plain change hot beans
To it corresponding Chinese deadbeat, go out repast is a very daily behavior, a week often the frequency that the frequency of outer repast is more than repast is in the home. Be in however the west, go out repast is a relatively grand thing, hum, you can imagine the family goes hearing a concert. Below different situation, different deadbeat is different to the requirement of cate, we make much time is for meal bureau, cram oneself with food, say a thing, patchy take a place, also reduced to alimental susceptibility many.
Of course this view also is one-sided, be just as take a part of the whole, anyhow analysis and discuss, chili all corners of the country has become established fact, the place that has a youth has hot taste. Hot had made the taste that has penetration most perforative reach rustic world at city of Chinese a gleam of.
Chili all corners of the country has become established fact, the place that has a youth has hot taste
Last year when, hunan defends inspected playwright-director to find me, want to do a cate newsreel that tells about chili, invite me to do always contribute. Our course is discussed, this film wants to do clear no more than is two things: The transmission of chili history, eat the each district custom of chili. Next time, delibrate, interview on the spot, browse document, feel oneself had a few train of thought occasionally, but in a twinkle was broken. Chili is such the food related to daily life, canvass rises, often nowhere does it.
To film this film, group of produce a film has gone through hardship, went technically still the United States, Mexico, France and Spain, pay close attention to China inside an international perspective only, ability is more significant.
Chili of dragon of Spanish handkerchief heart
Contributing last paragraphs of the word, I write:
"Life the five flavors is miscellaneous old, without surprise not to have, be broken to the world of cate of no less than is worn the individual character of the five flavors, the flavor that feeds avery kind of capable person with it most the expression of acme pounds taste bud of our the tip of the tongue, perhaps be in the beauty that counteracts as middle as what the five flavors all shows in allocating harmony, or extremely the potential that all develops taste of salty avery kind of of joys and sorrows of life to experience oneself, the five flavors is being deduced in oral cavity respective, extinct oneself, the meet the eye on every side that likes the life is flourishing, each savour have a story, the joys and sorrows of life that each deglutition and mastication had taken life is engraved in memory, the five flavors decided case to be in time.
The five flavors is being deduced in oral cavity respective, extinct oneself
Flavor of the tip of the tongue, it is the flavor of mind more. And hot this kind of taste, although we are limitted very easily,take hot typical district, this kind of flavour is elusory still also, it included the taste of all other to experience even sometimes, it can resemble salty same render palatable, having acerbity stimulation again, bitter aftertaste, still resemble sweet the feeling that makes person generation confuses unreal and cannot help doing sth euqally. Chili does not have celebrated one's life experience, the daily life of a family and ordinary, its solace is worn generation the appetite of another acting poor, also involve 3 food one day when illuminating several Chinese.
On the world can the chili of edible has about a hundred kinds, different chili sort can represent the local experience to taste and attitude, more moment, once the chili that serves as complementary makings and spice appears, always can arouse doubly advocate makings the infinite potential that feeds capable person, companion communicates gustatory sweet, delicacy, bright at the same time as hot taste, let all and common instant that feed capable person grow fund fund delicate, the tip of the tongue of gluttonous people is experienced.
Chili appears as complementary makings, always can arouse advocate makings the infinite potential that feeds capable person
Chili is not magical, but can give the ordinary infuse that feed capable person the soul; Chili is not overbearing also, but with overbearing mouthfeel moist life. From what chili comes to China that rises momently, be destined the daily life joys and sorrows with the Chinese is relevant, the vagrancy of chili, face about and heavy model are Jing grand dekko only, the taste that from bashful South-American fructification accepts generally to the Chinese is remembered, chili is in dim in had an agreement with China. Chili is in dim in had an agreement with China..
