The water of clothing fabrics is very deep, so that faintness dropped your daily acknowledge to fabrics.
Fabrics is woven by yarn, we always can think by accident the function of the itself of function = fiber of fabrics.
For example the fabric of pure cotton should bibulous, the fabric of chemical fibber should airtight.
But should pass special processing only, can turn round impression of these two kinds of popular completely.
The printing and dyeing mill can be in fabric macerate fluorine carbon kind in polymer solution, adopt certain bake technology, can make cotton fabric achieves waterproof result, the appearance of the description in this article that resembles me two kinds of organic dissolvent not each other dissolve and not dissolve at water, what does such organic dissolvent have?
This kind can improve the thing of fabrics function, be become inside our industry auxiliary of printing and dyeing.
9102 now, the coloring that expects on is not a problem already, there is a word to cry inside the industry: Did not catch the facial expression that give, do not do the fabrics that go out only.
And the printing and dyeing mill nowadays does not be coloring only, it is the poor dissimilation between fabrics and fabrics more. And how to accomplish the poor dissimilation between the product, must use auxiliary of different printing and dyeing.
Avoid iron hot shirt
For example common nowadays avoid iron hot shirt, also need not resemble traditional shirt again same, after be being taken off, cannot put in disorder, cannot squash casually, can form wrinkled crease otherwise, before going out every time, still need to iron very hot. And as avoid iron the occurrence of hot shirt criterion huge facilitated the life of people.
And the fabrics that can achieve such result should use auxiliary of a printing and dyeing to make fabric necessarily anti-creasing arrange an agent. Bases is colophony kind cross-linking agent.
Because cotton knits products,unripe drape is inevitable, the structure of this and its oneself is concerned, more amorphous area exists between cellulose, make cellulose long chain portion section can move freely, in outside force influence falls, cellulose long chain is out of shape with respect to meeting extruding form crease, and colophony cross-linking agent can form cross-linking with cellulose, the colophony cross-linking agent that itself has flexibility is general like bedspring, can pullback the cellulose long chain of displacement former position.
Cellulose fiber closed to go up in cross-linking process at the same time - OH hydroxyl, make cellulose long this Fan Dehua force between weakens catenary those, rose further anti-creasing the effect.
But, in the fabric after cross-linking, each other aperture between fiber and fiber also was stemmed, brought about moisture absorption permeability to become poor, lunt cannot from freedom from dress surface eduction, the meeting is more fuggy, comfortable sex can drop.
If be of comfortable sex only,drop to say fortunately then, brought huge advantage to us after all, iron irons before need not going out every time again.
And colophony cross-linking agent is anti-creasing the general term that arranges an agent, have different cross-linking composition and method among them, and the most commonly used the cross-linking method that arrive is about to use formaldehyde, not only the effect of cross-linking is very stable, formaldehyde is dog-cheap at the same time.
But the noxiousness of formaldehyde itself is self-evident, the aqueous solution of formaldehyde also is become formalin, assure the secret of success with body not cankered chiliad, because having huge biology noxiousness.
Formaldehyde also is supervised by international food medicines and chemical reagents management board is qualitative for one form carcinogenic substance!
In daily dress process, the formaldehyde of free can be released slowly from inside the dress, permeate enter the skin. And among the process that you are buying, the salesperson can tell this kind with you only anti-creasing the convenience sex of the dress and a bit, defect won't tell you.
Actually the personnel of their sale also does not understand, because the water of clothing fabrics is very deep, of industry span big, cannot yield each professional rate that has me from personnel of course of study.
When so the choose and buy accompanies anti-creasing and characteristic clothing and other articles of daily use, must choose old brand and in the product of costly case, after all the body is him.
The auxiliary bucket that piles up in the printing and dyeing mill
Softening agent
After discovery of regular meeting of the classics in the life was wearing very comfortable dress be washed a few times originally, feel can become hair is good, you may complain water quality is poor, wash clothes fluid is bad ah.
Actually the feel of the dress is destined to be able to increase as bath frequency and become poor, because used softening agent among them,be only, and softening agent can increase as bath frequency and decrease.
Common softening agent has cation softening agent and silicone oil softening agent, cation surface activator also is the bases that protects hair vegetable, agent of main support scanty water is adherent go up in fiber, close water base band has cation charge each other can repel each other reduce attrition force.
And the effect of silicone oil softening agent will be more apparent, because of the Si in silicone oil, the energy that the whirl that O silicon oxygen bolts requires is almost 0, two on 2 methylic silicone oil methylic also held larger dimensional position, make fiber those is apart from here increase, raise plasticity thereby.
Style of silicone oil structure
But softening agent is to have be able to bear or endure wash a frequency, because they did not have very strong adhesion with fiber itself, bath can be washed. Someone may say a present dress also cannot be worn how long, can wash 20 OK.
Be very sorry however, according to our lab statistic, have the left and right sides 5 times only, and it is soft effect is lost almost completely, very good also control 10 times only.
Nevertheless we have method to rise of course be able to bear or endure wash a frequency, that adds cross-linking agent namely, stick each other together commonly like glue. But the problem of generation was returned again original, may free formaldehyde exceeds tender risk.
In the dress " additive agent for food "
Show the fabrics that be in, clothes actually, become already and contemporary provision is same. Look be like simple food, having ten kinds additive to be inside among them.
And auxiliary of printing and dyeing resembles additive agent for food same, bring the dress brand-new function, better comfortable experience, there also also are a lot of harms commonly like additive agent for food in the meantime.
It is OK that someone can say the likelihood to want to accord with national level only, but the assay of clothings can want difficulty than the assay of food much, measuring clothings formaldehyde content commonly for instance is free formaldehyde, but the part combines formaldehyde to still be among clothings, it is met only as daily use slowly free comes out.
Waterproof, soft, become angry, fight bacterium, balmy, flame retardant, anti-creasing, whitened, add midge of black, weightening finish, fluorescent, drive etc, only you want to be less than, do not do without you, and this is to should add auxiliary of different printing and dyeing to be able to come true.
The iceberg of professional book one horn
The water of clothing fabrics has many deep, arrive greatly the extent that the majority also does not know from industry person, so I want to pass more professional perspective to take everybody to understand dress more this large trade.
Super dried food.
Cloth cost
The cost of the dress can differentiate roughly for above a few respects, simple treatment cost still has factory profit to form. So normal for, the exact quoted price of a dress, must want to purchase go finding value of identical fabrics, complementary makings, still edition division wears stuff of eduction bad news with Ma.
If new fund wants to give paper pattern and car appearance, calculate additionally even draw a design and car edition cost, still have the problem that your quality asks additionally, the problem of lot size (1000 cost affirmation with 100 will be different) , on any account differs the conference is very big, according to your requirement, labor cost of factory director business accounting, add up ability reachs exact quoted price.
Finished cost
Supplied materials treatment and contractor wrap the distinction of makings:
Supplied materials treatment: It is different that supplied materials treatment expects with contractor bag, normal for, client supplied materials is machined, the processing factory need not be assumed any risk, so clothing processing factory needs to sign up for normal treatment to expend only can.
Contractor bag expects: If be makings of bag of factory contract for a job, so the factory should draw out money to purchase cloth, be behavior of a kind of investment so, the price that processing factory newspaper goes out besides raw material cost, finished cost, return the profit that must want to have him.
Generally speaking, the risk is bigger, the profit that the processing factory asks can be jumped over tall, for instance outside only risk is about to compare risk of domestic order for goods relatively big, weak gain is met commonly beyond place want than profit of domestic order for goods tall, of course this is gotten specific see that client.
Average level is in the profit of the processing factory 15%-30%
So, should look for a processing factory when you when contractor wraps the sheet below makings, the profit know how things stand and feel confident of handling them to giving a processing factory wants in your heart, general and normal level is between 15%-30% .
Of course, also can individual processing factory says, I want 5% profit only, I am done to you. But in the long run, if have the profit of 5% only truly, and it is small order, I think only fool just can be received.
The person that does a processing factory becomes spirit, count word nobody can calculate more than them, profit calculates little place, sheet bad news makings and finished cost calculate high point, whole is pulled, gross profit affirmation won't be little.
Broad businessman also gives a proposal inside this so, cooperate in the factory that with you era is versed in in the process, should give them a bit hope, cooperate with you, the risk is little, and next sheet are seasonable, such processing factories are in and just meet in the process of your collaboration reduce his profit relatively.
Is cost of processing factory treatment after all how of numerate?
The side has a level here, between dress treatment industry, every place proposes a toast according to local firewood level and factory dimensions can have an occupation standard.
The treatment of a dress is expended even if all after all giving summation of labor cost of person of come off work is multiplied again with corresponding fold, this fold gives according to the dimensions of the factory, be in normally 2.3, 2.5 between, jump over big plant, fold is taller.
The labor cost that lays a worker than giving after all like a dress is 10, so the treatment that the factory wants to the client is expended even if 23, 25. Ten when this comes out more are the chummage, water and electricity, duty, profit that still has a boss.
Of course 10 come to small plant of the individual, because do not have order, by with 1.8 perhaps multiply with 2 do, and the big plant that some make high-quality goods, by with 3 other peoples also may not is done, this must treat specific condition.
About the price, a lot of people like argy-bargy, it is the thing of money of a few wool wants small order to be ground with the processing factory obviously, machine the Qianbuduo that this industry earns, you control the price of the factory desperately, do badly to may be just the opposite to what one wished, the commonnest is the money that pulls you period, bearing does bad midway poorly even you increase fund, your demand a low price when he knows this price does no less than coming obviously, he is received even, the deposit that accepted you should raise price again.
The thing of money of a few wool, if goods period is seasonable, quality can have assure, can cooperate you on treatment later, it is good that I feel a bit franker still.
Batch problem
The another problem about the price is the problem of batch, does the manufacturing worker of dress like what to kind of money make?
They are reckon by the piece, rely on to yield make money, they like to make generous money, it is the slowest that a new fund just begins to do, if goods has a few only, a few talents just opened goods to finish, do discomfort, efficiency goes out not to take money, garment industry enrols a person now worse and worse action, the worker does not earn money to be able to want possibly to change a factory, so the boss accepts the order to want to receive generous sheet.
The method that this problem solves in our factory is 300 the following new funds the labor cost of 30% is increased on standard value, the worker can do such at least to also can assure quality, so if your quantity wants again not quite desperately the word of the demand a low price, estimation also can follow you for a long time to do without the processing factory.
Dress quote
The flow of quote can say very simple, but should accomplish adroitness, the know how things stand and feel confident of handling them in the heart, still need at ordinary times accumulate and study.
To complementary makings, fabrics, imprint embroider, and all sorts of aftertreatments (include bath, pack etc) wait link a moment to need a very good assurance and knowledge. Be familiar with these prices next, know market level.
Receive home remedy form:
1.Price of FOB = fabrics + complementary makings price + (special technology) + labor cost + loss + pack + carry
CIF = FOB + is safe + freight + declare at customs + the bank is expended + ... (still duty is expended)
2.Knitting according to weight (kilogram or pound) computational cost, tatting according to length (rice number or yardage) calculative.
3.With the most reasonable door (cloth is sealed) be must the most reasonable.
4.Knitting dress uses makings computation formula: With makings (dosage) = is odd with makings (cut out) area X square metre overcomes = of heavy fabrics cost to use makings (dosage) X fabrics is monovalent.
By dimension the watch calculates the numeration of square:
(A) the dress (unlined upper garment) :
Large body uses makings: (half bust + half foot is surrounded + 6CM) / 2 X (height + 6CM) X 2 piece X square gram weighs X (makings of 1 + platoon falls cloth caustic 30 ％ of 10 ～ )
Arm uses makings: (sleeve Man + cuff + 6CM) / 2 X (sleeve length + 4CM) X 2 piece X square gram weighs X (makings of 1 + platoon falls cloth caustic 30 ％ of 10 ～ )
Collar uses makings: (neck width + 2CM) X (collar height + 2CM) X 2 piece X square gram weighs X (makings of 1 + platoon falls cloth caustic 30 ％ of 10 ～ )
Every dozens of dress uses makings = (large body is used makings + arm is used makings + collar is used makings) X 12 X (1 + total loss 3 ～ 8 ％ ) (final conversion is become kilogram)
(B) trousers:
(pants Man is surrounded partly + the bottom of a trouser leg is surrounded partly + 6CM) / 2 X (trousers length + 8CM) X 4 piece X square gram weighs X (makings of 1 + platoon falls cloth caustic 30 ％ of 10 ～ )
Fabrics computation is formulary:
Price of gauze of fabrics price = + weaving price + acquire price + other (include printing, deputy finalize the design, hind path each working procedure) (leave commonly deputy finalize the design the price: 2000 yuan / T)
Fabrics cost accounting:
Does the gram of gauze number and pin weaving cotton cloth have again why corresponding relation?
The yarn of how many number must the pure cotton plain cloth of 144gsm use for instance? How much is the span that knitted fabric weighs in the gram after coloring about?
A: The gauze number that says at present is to point to mostly " imperial number " , with English word " S " express.
Its definition is: In fair decide regain to fall, weigh the yarn of quid, its length has a few 840, call a few yarn, yarn is thicker, s value is less, yarn is finer, criterion " S " the value is greater, namely 40S/1 should be raised than the gauze of 20S/1 young fine such.
In the pin weaving cotton cloth of akin structure, gauze is raised more young fine, its gram is heavy (G/m2) lighter. If finished product of 32S/1 tabby cloth is overcome,be again between 135-145G/M2, and the finished product gram of 20S/1 tabby cloth is in again 180-190G/M2.
Knitting embryo cloth is whole before the course, the practice that boil, wait for a series of chemical reaction with the dye union in solution, splash of meeting moisture absorption is changed, so 15-20G/M2 of general metropolis weightening finish is controlled, but can choose as raw material fibrous, the construction of fabric, coloring craft, dye is characteristic and the float that has fixed rate.
Be like: General combs gauze because foreign matter is more, akin gauze is raised, fabric relatively the finished product that combing gauze supports will be lighter; Tabby cloth relatively the coil of Luo Wen cloth is tectonic and close-grained, reason embryo cloth and the gram after catching differ again relatively Luo Wen cloth wants small, still have the cloth that supports akin construction with gauze, the density of weaving also is met influential.
B: The gauze that comes out according to theoretical calculation is raised / norms rice gram is weighed and actually very different, same because the fabrics that approves production is pulled finalize the design processing has a bit different, the gram also is met again error is not little. Of course, see gauze raise from factory price-list, norms, fabric width, gram is heavy, can know certain rule roughly, that method that considers a gram heavy anyway won't be simple.
