The toy of mature man has a lot of, for instance car, for instance antique, but express be in sb's good graces as mechanical wrist. The Yu Nan's person that mechanical wrist expresses, be just like famous brand bag at the woman, the person that loves it forever insufficient, the person that does not know it has all sorts of doubt. "Rigid list is so expensive, why should buy rigid list? " or " rigid list efficiency is very low, those who include Tuo flywheel to be expressed without quartz inside is accurate, the person that does not understand beautiful so much money to buy rigid list " . Where is rigid list worth to love after all then? Why so expensive? When rigid list goes really, forbid? ... about rigid list 10 things can understand well.
Between machinery primitive and interactive the glamour place that is rigid list
Mechanical wrist expresses just as its name implies to rely on mechanical principle completely to finish the wrist of timework to express namely, say simply even if wait for drive of in-house and rigid structure completely through clockwork spring and gear, is not batteries, light energy or other energy drive is horological, cent to go up automatically catenary and hand are moved on catenary two kinds. The dynamical source of these two kinds of rigid lists all comes from the clockwork spring inside support machine core to be motivation, drive gear to drive watch needle then, the means that what differ exclusively is dynamical source only is discrepant. The hand is moved on the dynamical drive clockwork spring that the rigid list of catenary relies on roll to express a generation, the ply of machine core is more general and automatic go up the table of catenary is a few smaller, the weight of whole opposite watch is lighter. And go up automatically the watch of catenary, it is the automatic Tuo that uses machine core bottom swings and the motivation of generation comes drive clockwork spring produces the sources of energy, but the hand with the can more ordinary ply of opposite watch is moved on catenary watch is a few thicker, great majority has a hand to move at the same time on the function of catenary.
Go up automatically catenary machinery is expressed, there is a hemicycle in machine core normally, can place Tuo rotationally. Go up automatically catenary machinery expresses the roll through placing Tuo, drive gear and lever to be watch wind. Want you to wearing a watch only, swing with respect to what can carry an arm, let place Tuo " turn " rise, wind, in imperceptible in finished. So, so called go up automatically catenary, return be need hand to participate in, just need not express a coronal with hand roll painstakingly just.
Somebody expresses machinery the artwork with elegant assimilate to
Rigid list and the distinction that quartz expresses are just like product line production and the distinction that make by hand, craft of the machine core of rigid list, burnish has the place that deserves ponder. To the lover of watch, your person is intoxicated the subtle collision sound of rigid list gear, attrition sound. Some have a fever friend still can ravel the watch, film with professional camera machine core each angle, after enlarge photograph fine fine play. Does the quartz that this kind of fun is opposite petty gain express what can you bring?
By Geneva advanced and horological the most complex mechanical wrist on the world that enjoys elect by ballot to go out greatly is expressed -- Jiang Shidan pauses the celestial bodies of attic craftsman series exceeds Zhuo Fu miscellaneous wrist is expressed 3600. Include part of 514 machine core, complete handiwork is made, price 6.65 million. Each place is artistic, worth while fine fine play.
Rigid list is expensive be in more, the most expensive is the energy when making and time
The beauty of rigid list is a kind of small and artful beauty, with the beauty closely related handicraft, rare mechanical wrist watch is made from machine core, burnish polish, carve lacquer draw, enchase to gem waiting for flow is to be finished by hand almost, with other elegant handicraft is tasted very similar, they belong to manual artwork. And do not say brand value, the value of the precious metal itself such as value of machine core technology and gem, expend the energy on an artwork and time cost also are beyond measure namely, this also is why the cause with rigid noble list.
Light is countless man-hour that burnish polish is about to expend craftsman. The exterior burnish of rigid list, resemble watchcase, watch chain, also can mirror the class that gives this list adequately. Love the royal oak of those for instance, octagonal watchcase is very special, the craft that make is more multifarious than circular watchcase much, the burnish of watchcase, watch chain, pass a few working procedure even normally, such ability bring excellent simple sense to the person, the painstaking effort that meantime expends, it is we are adv unimaginably.
The burnish of machine core with respect to prep let alone. alleged " a minute of price a minute of goods " , the machinery of introductory class is expressed, placing Tuo to go up to be made a bit only mostly decorate, in light of whole " water of clear soup few " . Arrived in upright level, scalelike mark, even Geneva is moire, hall and the ground of emperor appeared. And advanced and rigid list, machine core burnish is more conspicuous, a few still can have the special burnish of characteristic of extremely rich brand, type Geneva ripple waits the radiative shape Arabia that resembles Europe rice eggplant for instance a moment.
Mature man loves rigid list mostly
What the glamour of rigid list follows the glamour of mature man to have different in approach but equally satisfactory in result is clever, want to experience the precipitation of time, should fine fine savour, glamour not only flow at the surface, more inside " heart " glamour. Machine core it may be said is the soul of rigid list, and higher-priced expresses a paragraph, just often be big shop sign people the interval that machine core technology experiences, have cost ability technology of licentious and capricious caboodle, from machine core when going, spend definitely, burnish level is waited a moment to the appearance is military strategist in ancient China is contended for surely.
Found the count 1874, ply goes out to have core of machine of the catenary on the 9P of 2 millimeter only in successful 1957 development, in the 12P automatic machine core that rolled out 1960, ply has 2.32 millimeter only, achieve the whole world respectively the catenary on the thinnest hand follows to go up automatically after the world record of catenary machine core, up to now count still is adapting ceaselessly multinomial history record.
These speak of treasure Ji, labor person the name that rigid list does not escape is not contriver however
System of rotor of contemporary and automatic watch by labor person research and development, register for patent. It was introduced 1931 oyster type series expresses a paragraph, name constant of the type that it is oyster to move. The CTO of labor person is Emile Borer at that time, it is the rotor system that he developed modern plane core.
However, is inventing the first person Abraham however? Is the way easy? Bai Telai Abraham-Louis Perrelet, bai Telai Perrelet is considered as the father of mechanical watch. He introduced this idea 1770, because this invention fits wrist list more, be in at that time is special lead so. But unfortunate is, bai Telai Perrelet lives in pocket watch times, how won't be the watch moved in the pocket, cause this kind of unit unavailable enough power, cannot give priority to clockwork spring to go up enough catenary, express the systematic performance at that time automatically so not beautiful.
Abraham? Is the way easy? Ji Abraham-Louis Perrelet(1747-1823) improved treasure to go up automatically catenary system, call its " constant is moved " horological. Of 19 centuries a few otherer tabulation great master also pushed this idea. But until one afterwar, wrist watch begins popularity to rise, labor person perfected its system, automatic machine core just is applied in their watch money.
Treasure Ji be handed down from ancient times fastens a 7047 gearshift constant to move wrist to express, the 728 pocket watch that once had designed with Great Master of patriarch treasure Ji are inspiration, prejudicial time is indicated, will place Tuo, escape wheel all moves to express the front to wrist, can be the testimony of brand history.
Rigid list cannot talk a hero definitely with essence of life solely
As a result of working principle, rigid list suffers force of magnetic field, temperature, attrition, hairspring to wait for a variety of influences evenly, when going, be expressed as quartz really and electronic watch. According to machine core character different, the deviation that robot watch essence spends definitely is 30 seconds arrive negative between 5 seconds. Core of observatory attestation machine is slow can not exceed 4 seconds, fast can not exceed 6 seconds. And quartz is expressed extremely accurate, year error is very small: Every are junior at a minute, namely everyday little at one second. Nevertheless in front also mention, cannot talk a hero definitely with essence of life, the glamour of rigid list depends on its artistic quality, those who be not essence of life to allow is practical.
In the respect when energy goes definitely, the El Primero of legend machine core when true power is the famousest machine core on tabulation history, also be current on the world most the series with accurate essence produces machine core.
Brand-new when issuance Defy series El Primero 21 sets watch of the wrist that get a money to carry true power epoch-making gigantic make core of machine of El Primero 21, its time essence of life is spent definitely be as high as unprecedented 1% second, enchase the diamond that gross weight amounts to 5 carat at the same time, numerous be like crisscross of stars, glorious, hold inside and outside concurrently long, costly charm promotion comes brand-new state.
Switzerland 3 big attestation, the id card that advanced machinery expresses
Observatory attestation
Swiss observatory attestation is test a tissue by Swiss government observatory (abbreviation C.O.S.C. ) the identification that makes in the light of watch accuracy, eligible watch often is called Chronometer, observatory watch. This word comes from Chronometer the synthesis of two Greek words: Khronos(time) , metron(computation, measure) . C.O.S.C. Be in respectively 3 places set the Swiss Geneva, Bill, De Feng that pull carry on detect center. In the watch number that gets check, have 2% about, 3% meetings are washed out. Because the test is to chase an exam, so even if two watches that are the same as a paragraph, the test has a certain number of difference possibly also on the number as a result. Rigid list wants only everyday of the error in - mark is amounted to between 4~+6 second.
Geneva impress
Geneva impress comes from what made 1886 " Geneva law " , the purpose is the craft that assures horological country of origin and craftsman. Geneva impress is issued only what make in Geneva area is horological, the horological ability that carries the mechanical machine core that makes automatic first quarter by hand only obtains this special honour, engrave on the plywood of machine core imprinting " eagle and key " armorial mark, although did not obtain the not likely of Geneva impress,not be good watch, but the superlative degree that accords with the standard of Geneva impress to be able to represent tabulation technology almost however is other and excellent.
100 Da Feili impress
Those who regard outstanding tabulation as craft is brand-new and indicative, 100 Da Feili impress surpassed all levels with Swiss tabulation existent course of study. This one " impress " representing 100 Da Feili's commitment at the same time, the each chronometer work that makes since 1839 is offerred lifelong maintain serve with repair, because of this have the aid of this one " impress " , 100 Da Feili ensures chronometer work can take the place of acting according to legend.
Tuo flywheel, perpetual calendar, 3 ask, the 3 big complex functions that mechanical wrist expresses
Mechanical wrist watch is made complex, have numerous function, or practical or play, and among them the flywheel of perpetual calendar, Tuo, 3 3 big complex functions that ask a machinery that be called wrist is expressed.
Tuo flywheel
Tuo flywheel is tabulation pioneer treasure Mr Ji was invented 1795 and continue to use up to now device of a kind of horological timing, this also is to let treasure Ji there are one of reasons that cannot replace on tabulation culture history, at the beginning of inventing, application is above pocket watch, it is to resist gravity is opposite horological the error that even if the parts in the system is caused,catchs.
Average machine is expressed, because be spent by clockwork spring degree of tightness, the influence of metallic fatigue and gravity, the error is bigger; Tuo flywheel governor, it is exclusive need not suffer these effects, year error under 1 second, also be the rigid list structure that can reach observatory level exclusively.
The Tuo flywheel nowadays applies extensively on wrist watch, express to wrist actually for, the action with Tuo real flywheel already very little. Nevertheless, regard top class tabulation as the delegate of craft, still be expressed to confuse place to chase after by great majority hold in both hands, also can make each big at the same time the brand borrows this to show masterly tabulation craft, after all can Hold lives the brand of this kind of craft is true not much!
Perpetual calendar
Perpetual calendar wrist is expressed and unexpectedly flavour can run all ages really, a bit error is done not have, actually every hundred years need is moved. Also somebody can feel 3 big complex functions are medium, perpetual calendar is the simplest, why can you still sell so expensive? Want, common week calendar is expressed, encounter volume month to be about the hand is moved go moving date, can be being encountered otherwise was May 1 obviously, wrist watch still shows the awkward scene April 31 however.
The perpetual calendar of rigid list, can saying is the mankind to gear, cam and lever most the combination with wonderful essence of life is applied, pass a series of mechanical combination, watch of perpetual calendar wrist can identify miscarriage of a solar month of 31 days, non-leap year bissextile, the watch of perpetual calendar wrist of the majority needs generation discipline to be moved only.
Want to make a perpetual calendar wrist express, need many parts, and major parts is abnormity, must be to be made by hand. Very complex those who made a process also decide watch of perpetual calendar wrist lives a life is exiguous, even if is to be in what science and technology develops today, perpetual calendar watch also drops considerably, but the valuable that still is pursuit of small number of people.
3 ask
3 ask a watch namely 3 reed watch, 3 kinds of noise that make spring are different, distinguishable piece " when " " quarter " " cent " announce the correct time, it is acoustics with kinetic the gain that manage. It is for people at first do not need to see a table in darkness, the sound sort that can resound according to wrist watch and frequency can know the watch of time. Normally for, low tone announces the correct time, alt attune newspaper is engraved, high attune calls the score.
Gain ground as what luminous wrist expresses, 3 those who ask a watch is practical drop greatly, luminous wrist table is more practical and simple, and cost is more economical, do not have necessary lane completely 3 ask, present 3 ask and Tuo flywheel is same, the mainest function namely the platform of ability of each old brand dazzle, prove the mark of actual strength.
Judge a 3 grade discretion that ask a watch, the most important is tonal, cheap 3 ask a watch, announce the correct time sound is laggard and cloudy, and of 1 million level top class 3 ask a watch, sound is ringing and lucid, size is distinct, glamour of this kind of audio, no matter be in,can let a person why indulge when.
Watch of wrist of hollow out machinery is more and more welcome
Hollow out expresses making is an exquisite art, need outstanding tabulation technology and superhigh art susceptibility, its purpose is come through reducing spare parts construction least, make the light OK penetrate wrist is expressed freely, reveal machine core thereby inside in run, show the beauty of mechanical movement to people.
Feel to show the He Chaojiang of tall accurate sex of machine core to move, tabulation division needs to be a foundation with average machine core, use a needle first need hollow-out the part is gotten into alveolus, eliminate is redundant metal, decorate all brims into 45 degrees of horn with graver next bevel edge and become carve of machine core face different pattern. In the process of this ponderosity aesthetic feeling, they are returned must reduce the obstacle of core of clairvoyant and rock-bottom machine to lowest. Working procedure heavy and complicated, craft is careful, the difficulty that make is quite tall.
Remove the factor such as brand and complex function, the difficult easy degree of craft of machine core hollow out also is to affect what wrist expresses to appreciate one of main factors of latent capacity. The more complex wrist expresses machine core hollow out, its value and appreciate potential is greater also.
Roger Dubuis Roger prevent those Excalibur 42 is automatic go up watch of wrist of catenary hollow out, brand mark sex is interstellar hollow out dial sends out handsome the temperament that grab an eye, the spirit that the spirit of hollow out craft shows all shows machine core over. Carbon fiber material pledges watchcase develops halfback style, extraordinary originality and overturn the combines at present innovation and breakthrough brand with sexual qualitative material.
The life that mechanical wrist expresses grows than you likely
Rigid list, if take care to caress at ordinary times, maintain regularly, can use on a few years, all one's life, even inheritance gives next generation. This namely why 100 Da Feili has a famous advertisement sign: "Can have without the person 100 Da Feili, just keep to leave generation just " . Although this is advertisement, but the attribute that also elaborated rigid list inheritance really.