? Deep noise achieves Guo Fanyu of · author | formerly
Should cross world head likewise rich, but Oman Xiao Aotejia and Beizunsi's latter circumstances is very different.
Be in several days ago, bei Zunsi announces demit holds the post of Yamaxun CEO, reason is " do not want to staring at discharge all the time, should explore outer space with more time " , complacent is full of between utterance. Under photograph comparing, oman Xiao Aotejia drops besides the rank, the Inditex group that its establish (ZARA parent company) day also not quite feel well.
This year in January, the inn of all and hypostatic door that Inditex announces to will shut Bershka of brand of sister of the ZARA below the banner, Pull&Bear and Stradivarius to be in China, withhold the electric business medium of communication such as the website only. And last year in June, inditex ever still announced to close store of door of global limits 1000-1200, turn to the development on the line.
Money signs up for data to show, below epidemic situation concussion, inditex2020 year shrink of clean first half of the year sale exceeds 30% , deficit makes an appointment with 1.5 billion yuan. Industry bibcock even is such, the circumstances of other fast fashionable trademark not character is axiomatic.
From 2018 since, fast fashionable brand is in abroad Chinese market is successional be thwarted, old Navy of the brand below banner of TopShop, New Look, Forever21, Gap exited Chinese market, C&A to sell its in succession Chinese business, so that the outside is mentioned " quick style " , the big probability of follow closely is from the back " flee China " . Arrive from gloriously radiant decline altar, the aureola that what took away quick style be?
Arrive from Gao Guang dimHow do domestic consumer forgets quick style very hard engulf Chinese market. "Quick style " 3 words, it is fortune password itself for a time.
2002, actor garment library opens a door store in Shanghai, the brand of fast fashionable international such as after this ZARA, C&A, H&M, GAP, Forever21 swarms into home. These brands assembled all sorts of international popularity elements, the value is relative at the same time civilian, "Vogue feels " Yuan Chao the domestic brand at that time, it is good to make youth mind quickly.
To garment industry, what fast fashionable brand brings is the design that your person finds everything new and fresh not only, still have overturn the mode of traditional thinking innovates.
Be based on supply catenary system neatly, fast fashionable brand is used engineer from commodity, make retail integrated the perpendicular conformity that rise sale mode, the brand supplies chain through optimizing, shortened the time that consumes to the client from manufacturing commodity is periodic, be designed with low cost apace and make the product that gives trend of follow closely vogue. It is with ZARA exemple, ZARA pervades meeting small lot produces global plant all sorts of popular design, obedience designs a garment to be hanged on goods shelves not to exceed 3 weeks of two time.
In short, of tide of follow closely vogue high frequency on new be " quick style " core wants justice. Be in high frequency on on new base, fast fashionable brand still is fond of a shop to leave to be mixed in high-grade shopping centre flourishing traffic hub a sector of an area, the flow that uses itself of a sector of an area and aureola are farther aggrandizement brand effect.
Review the change that comes ten years, the development that fast fashionable brand is in China also is the dilate below a line that advance triumphantly history, but once pace is stridden too greatly, when facing change, also meet be enslaved to be enslaved to is inertial.
Accompanying the development of mobile Internet, change on the line become the keyword with new industry, the investment of a sector of an area of gold of race to control yields more considerable than lasting no longer. Begin from 2016, the footstep of dilate of phase out of fast fashionable brand, there is no lack of among them the deficit put up the shutters, circumstance that exits Chinese market. Arrived 2020, epidemic situation is to give fast fashionable industry to bring serious blow more.
Epidemic situation belongs to black swan incident, but although do not have epidemic situation, "Quick style " also be in become insufficient fast, insufficient vogue, a ring of light is faint with each passing day.
Be in " fast " the level, supply chain what depend on home formidably, brand of native land dress duplicated very quickly the commercial pattern of quick style, trend of this imply competition is coessential change. In addition, of mobile Internet gain ground make be collected of consumer data immediately and the analysis becomes a possibility, rely on electric business platform to grow the businessman that rise answers market demand quickly, the core camp of fast fashionable brand encounters a challenge.
It is with SHEIN exemple, on the foundation that its taste in high frequency supplier, use consumer data to optimize an user to have an insight into, product from the design, make a sale can have a definite object in view. According to report of behind schedule LatePose, SHEIN went up last year new more than 150 thousand product, only 1-2 the month can surmount ZARA annual go up to be counted newly, and the half left and right sides that congener product value needs ZARA only.
Be in " vogue " the level, fast fashionable brand is not created and lead style, just be designed through answering fashionable element quickly and produce a product. Specific and character, fast fashionable brand can send stylist quarter at beautiful field of each big fashionable dress, through " draw lessons from " of all kinds work of stylist of big shop sign, push next to the market. This plays a law to be unavoidable to be able to encounter borrowed accusation, ZARA borroweds with respect to Ceng Yin the sandal of the trousers of OTB group Diesel and Marni is asked instantly recall tort product, stop to sell, pay the compensation of 235 dollars for every product.
Because the sign of big shop sign always can see in product of fast fashionable brand, in the consumptive agitation that goes after individual character nowadays, of quick style " fashionable feeling " also be in sell at a discount. Younger customer hopes to reveal distinct personality, is not follow the general trend. In addition, the environmental pollution problem that the fast fashionable brand such as ZARA, H&M causes denounces for the person all the time, this also does not accord with the value of young generation to advocate.
"Fast " and " vogue " while experience is challenged, too the growth that depends on the outspread method below the line to also be fast fashionable brand buries next hidden trouble. Join competition when more and more brands, abroad fast fashionable brand tries from sink the market acquires more market share, but make a way likewise and cannot get used to a gleam of at the same time city and sink the commercial environment of the market.
On one hand, fast fashionable brand counts shopping center badly, but sink industry condition has not mature related the market, the consumptive habit of consumer of small line city, vogue accepts rate differ; On the other hand, the native land brand such as dark horse, beautiful Tesibangwei already was had in small line market quite portion, fast fashionable brand wants to break through tight encirclement to be not easy thing.
Under domestic trouble and foreign invasion, fast fashionable tide already was become in former days halo. And all tall light and dim, the industry environment that all changes quickly with Chinese market is concerned.
Metabolic resurgence rises, the She Ji in changeBe in " ZARA: The challenge to inherent thinking mode " in one article, the success of gas of author Gu Ai ZARA Xiao Aotejia is taking ascribe Oman new game regulation entered fashionable group, broke through traditional chains, "Although be opposite for the great majority entrepreneur of textile, fashionable change is representing problem and trouble. But to Inditex group, this means opportunity. This means opportunity..
Successful case has a lot of business actually similar " play " : Hold times trend, those who jump out to have pattern already manacle, do in poor dissimilation competition do greatly strong. But with this method arisen enterprise also often has same reason downhill: Fail follow closely trend, dropped out in change.
Specific to Chinese market, of business affairs of the osmosis of mobile Internet, electron arisen changed an industry to play a way jointly with the changes that consumes agitation.
Came 2013 between 2020, chinese net buys user amount from 302 million add buy to 700 million person, net trade amount is added by 270 billion yuan reach 6.82 trillion yuan, shop on the line become home to consume advocate. Hold to the dilate below the line than brand of international quick style, chinese native land brand got used to means of the operation on the line quickly.
Although international is fast fashionable brand ever also tried the operation on the line, but the position on the line such as official website, APP is relatively traditional, get flow hard. Contrary, the sale distribution that domestic native land brand is depending on mainland to change, take electric business express train or bus, in naughty treasure, god-given development extra dividend was captured in shaking the channel on the line such as sound, little red book.
More be good at " play discharge " while, brand of burgeoning native land dress is online on next layout also more the taste that knows contemporary and young customer, the shop that passes net red wind for instance, try style of the decorate between the garment to guide an user to send medium of socialization of cloth of issue as before, contented and young customer " play card " need.
Besides new affiliation challenger, traditional and homebred brand also is being connected too young change and digitlize transition to get used to new consumptive requirement -- Li Ning, how to step combination to cross bound IP to roll out cosignatory money; Waxwing compose was built include system of business of platform of business of door inn, traditional cable, gregarious cable inside retail system, also participate in at the same time in taking a place with a draught of sale of content of frequency of direct seeding, nearsightedness.
The opportunity of challenge melt into that Inditex group brings fashionable change, but in change faster, mainland influences the Chinese market with stronger feature, fast fashionable brand people fail to return to be defeated in those days when the bureau brilliant.
Before the challenge, fast fashionable brand also is seeking solution. It is with ZARA exemple, its are passing a company group the means such as channel of small order of sale, layout and direct seeding strengthens the connection with consumer. Since January 2020, ZARA begins direct seeding of raise the quota, open direct seeding in store of day cat flagship not only, still carry in small letter small order offer special direct seeding channel, ZARA LIVE.
H&M chose to go against situation and on, ARKET of card of its banner inferior and &Other Stories near future announce to will open hypostatic store in China, still roll out Singular Society of card of first member goods, offer high quality dress household and necessary commodity to the member, try to build image of high quality brand with this.
New change has been started, the potential energy of sharp fashionable decline denies changeover to remain time tests, but OK and affirmatory is, the country that develops in high speed consumes the market, do not have what is get sth done once and for ever to play a way.