Civil | Southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie
Responsibility edits | Yao Yi river
Of spring chill chilly March, xinjiang cotton develops hot search however.
On March 24, 2021, on platform of Chinese gregarious media, the public opinion with violent experience of company of H&M of brand of Swedish quick style " cannon " . A statement that this company issues in government-owned net says, purchase Xinjiang cotton no longer. Subsequently, the commerce that H&M encircles in Chinese recreation is companionate, wait like actor yellow a small room, Song Qian announce with H&M " cut " . Up to on March 25, clean out treasure, Beijing east, go all out great tycoon of business waiting for report already the shop on screen or the line that leave a H&M and relevant commodity. And incident still is fermenting ceaselessly, more brand be involved in among them.
Autumn 2020, the reporter ever visited south on the spot on the weekend Xinjiang north and south, interview factory of pily farm, cotton ginning, cotton to plant deep the cotton spinning such as factory of company, clothing supplies chain company to wait. Many Xinjiang cotton look forward to are deep-set and slow-moving predicament, and predicament backside, be around international cotton spinning speech counterpoises one " dark battle " .
"Ferment the bad news of half an year "
In be worth a year the coldest when, air temperature also is in 0 times by day, noonday sun also is basked in do not melt the ice in flat.
Early morning, groups of the Uygur nationality is small Maimaidi Alifu drives to go to work to the factory. A year ago, he eventually assemble enough money bought a car, changed broken report motor-car, "The car is used, just tens of thousands of money, have central heating. Have central heating..
Maimaidi this year 25 years old, it is Xinjiang Wei the Yingkule that plow a county presses down a person. Spring 2017, he sees from circle of small letter friend factory of a cotton ginning is hiring home town, apply for subsequently make this plant a worker. "There are 30 mus of lands in the home, parents is helped do farm work in the home before, work part time when slack season. Mix now the contract of the factory is a year of one autograph, average every monthly wages 4000 yuan, social security is all ready, income had safeguard. Income had safeguard..
A day of December 2020, maimaidi drives in the factory forklift, carry lint. Go the cotton perianth squeezing ramming of seed holds a bag, every packets have hundreds kilograms. After boss Zhang Biao sees, exhort, slow bit, the attention is safe. Maimaidijiao must compare him this only big young shopkeeper of a few years old " the person is right still " , one new year he still wants to continue to work.
What Maimaidi does not know is, his home town and hold Chinese cotton crop most probably Xinjiang cotton, be immersed in eddy of a public opinion.
Zhang Biao takes Maimaidi's employer in the office, the face shows appear to be reluctant. Inside plant area, workers give make friends deftly packets of good cotton is big labelled, a pile pile orderly put. Nearby, buy the seed cotton that come to piling to go up in outdoor goods yard from cotton grower place, cock " pily hill " .
Zhang Biao is limited company of spin of people's expectations of county of Xinjiang Wei Li (the following abbreviation " people's expectations spin " ) boss. Enter in December, of Xinjiang cotton buy had ended, factory of each big cotton ginning in succession open lint sale. Nevertheless, welcome always Xinjiang grows cotton of cloth with soft nap, the sales volume 2020 is not hopeful however.
"In October 2020, with the Switzerland with company old cooperation good cotton develops association (the following abbreviation " BCI " ) send understanding suddenly to make an appointment with an announcement, to the lint this year the sale brought certain influence. To the lint this year the sale brought certain influence..
Zhang Biao is " 90 hind " . After the university graduates, he did not stay in the city of a provincial capital with coastal the eastpart part, return Wei to plow a county however, had received familial 1990 era builds the pily plant that have.
"We purchase seed cotton from cotton grower hand, machine lint next, sell again swim downward. " Zhang Biao says, purchasing seed cotton is on 10 thousand tons at every turn, devoted capital cost 10 thousand yuan thousands of. If do not have stable cooperative client, perhaps encounter a particular year with fluctuant price, cause big loss very easily.
2015, zhang Biao starts hundreds farmer to hold water " people's expectations cotton cultivates professional cooperation " , become the executive partner of BCI subsequently. In routine, zhang Biao needs to ask according to BCI project, directive cotton grower grooms, cultivate, collect close wait for the job, report pily data by the quarter. BCI still can expedite personnel to check and accept careful to check to partner place regularly.
Limited company of spin of people's expectations of Wei Li county (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
BCI is one is not gain membership organization internationally, the pily supply of the member below the banner and purchase a quantity to discharge advanced row in the whole world. "Can last cotton produces a standard " it is current international textile the important admittance standard of current trade domain. Besides BCI, the cotton such as Australia, Brazil, India produced big country to already also established native standard, and this one standard is in China still is blank.
Via the cotton of BCI attestation, the market is approbated degree taller. Zhang Biao also expresses, "Compare with common cotton, have BCI attestation, tower above of every tons of price goes to hundreds of yuan a few yuan. And, the trafficker with pily downstream industry, cotton mill also is BCI member, join among them can wide make friend, extend business. Extend business..
Introduction of annals of Liu of staff of BCI China region says, at present on international about can lasting judge standard of cotton is very much, and the advantage of BCI depends on, already methodical can last pily judge standard, also have giant pily yield. Nowadays, thousands of member spreads all over BCI the whole world, and the type is diversiform, enclothe fluctuation to swim catenary of cotton spin industry.
Rose every year in March, xinjiang cotton grower begins cotton to cultivate work. According to the convention, zhang Biao also should report cotton field data. However, march 2020, zhang Biao received BCI respect to be sent accidentally however " suspensive attestation " mail.
Mail shows, "In view of at present the complex case of international environment, BCI board decides finally, in 2020-2021 year, the attestation plan that suspends be in Chinese Xinjiang area and certificate. In the meantime, BCI will use this paragraph of time, undertake upgrade further and be optimizinged to the standard, in order to answer complex and changeful external environment. In order to answer complex and changeful external environment..
In subsequently half an year, zhang Biao discovers BCI respect did not stop in a lot of activity of Xinjiang, he also continues according to BCI asks to report relevant data, communicate a thing to make progress to receiving person contact with BCI Na Jiang. "Just think at that time the attestation that pauses one year, still have to prospective collaboration those who expect. " Zhang Biao says.
After half an year, the bad news still came.
October 2020, zhang Biao got the mail that hair of personnel of BCI China office work comes to. Show among them: "In view of upgrade about system of good cotton standard at present complex case of the job, BCI decides to terminate executive partner agreement temporarily at present. BCI decides to terminate executive partner agreement temporarily at present..
"A post says ' suspensive 2020-2021 year ' attestation, and what this post says is ' stop temporarily ' . Sensory case not only did not improve, worsened further instead. " Zhang Biao says.
Workshop of limited company of pomegranate seed dress (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
"Decision-making come from Swiss headquarters "
"End cooperation " after mail sends number week, BCI announced answer to a riddle.
On October 21, 2020, BCI Switzerland headquarters releases statement to say in government-owned net, rose in March 2020, the cotton that BCI stopped pair of Chinese Xinjiang areas in succession extends certificate, will end cooperation in the round in October.
Statement points out, "Force to Chinese The Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region labor and other violate human rights act accuse continuously, caused more and more the management environment that maintains hard. Accordingly, BCI decides to suspend all and on-the-spot activity of this area instantly, include ability to construction and data are monitored and report. Include ability to construction and data are monitored and report..
On December 18, 2020, BCI Switzerland headquarters goes out in another outgiving middle finger: "Researcher discovers... one class forces Xinjiang area farm the risk of labor is bigger and bigger. "Researcher discovers... one class forces Xinjiang area farm the risk of labor is bigger and bigger..
Face accusation, include Chinese area employee inside a lot of personage feels indissoluble: Why does predestined relationship of BCI Switzerland headquarters issue such statement?
The reporter discloses south of ambition of Liu of staff of BCI China region on the weekend, and other places of happy in Chinese Xinjiang rich, Kuerle, A Kesu has current BCI more than 10 executive partners. In 2020, BCI China area ever sent personnel to reach Xinjiang much ground survey. "This survey was not enclothed all (partner) , chose however among them a few. According to the news that I know, make an on-the-spot investigation this and did not discover relevant enterprise to have the case that forces labor. " Liu Zhi says.
Cling to city (autonomous prefecture of Mongolia of arris of Ba Yin Guo) Li Chengjun of general manager of limited company of development of Tai Changnong estate also to south the reporter confirms on the weekend, in May 2020, many staff member reachs BCI China area peaceful prosperous is industrial, the survey that had by a definite date 2 days, the management circumstance that asked a mill and the circumstance that use worker worker. "Did not produce unpleasant experience at that time, later period also did not receive the feedback that discovers the farm disobeys BCI to set. " Li Chengjun is recollected.
Actually, it is early when company first time and BCI collaboration, zhang Biao realizes using worker worker is look forward to of BCI assessment cotton is important. Since 2020, BCI respect ever also asked cotton grower takes a picture to cultivating link, kinescope, the proof accords with BCI requirement in producing a course. Look in Zhang Biao, "We began to accept attestation 2015, meantime does not have a problem all the time. Why to appear 2020 unluckily problem? The problem discovered in alleged investigation, I feel be fictitiousing zero. I feel be fictitiousing zero..
On March 1, 2021, BCI Shanghai representing goes up at date of public of official small letter publish declare say, before place of delegate of Shanghai of near future BCI is received, partial Xinjiang executes letter of the partner asking ask. Group of BCI China project is rigid the principle of examine and verify of comply with BCI, examine and verify of the 2nd reliability mixes the calendar year that begins to nod place to carry out to Xinjiang project from 2012 tripartite test and verify, never discover one concerns the incident that forces labor.
Should declare still show, BCI Shanghai carries out a partner to continue to maintain on behalf of place general and Xinjiang communicate, safeguard jointly supply catenary to be able to develop continuously.
How does BCI Switzerland headquarters reach " existence forces labor venture " be related becomes a puzzle as before. Nevertheless, BCI suspends adding up to the adverse effect of oppose Xinjiang cotton to had been shown.
Limited company of liability of linen-cotton of Xinjiang Hao star (the following abbreviation " Hao Xing linen-cotton " ) be located in Xinjiang Bo Erda to pull Mongolia autonomous prefecture rich happy city, under one's name has 8 cotton farm, annual lint treatment capacity makes an appointment with 100 thousand tons. This company joined BCI 2013, cooperated 7 years with latter.
Xinjiang country glad is planted cotton of limited company new Yo plants course of study (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
"Because of BCI break down cooperate, our company the lint 2020 is bad to sell, the price and market got affect. " Gao Ruinan of manager of business of Hao star linen-cotton to south the reporter expresses on the weekend, up to by December 2020, the company sold estimation only 10 thousand - 20 thousand tons of lint. And consult in recent years sale, groovy standard should be in 3-4 10 thousand tons. "Our cotton has now apparent slow-moving, crude guess loss many yuan 1400, 1/3 what take year profit about. 1/3 what take year profit about..
Panic still is spreading downstream to industrial catenary.
Introduction Gao Ruinan says, in client of its company cooperation, having a lot of is the trafficker that is engaged in cotton textile imports and exports. Be informed Xinjiang cotton to meet with BCI " remove sb's name from the rolls attestation " hind, cooperative enterprise " everybody highs oneself " . Export order for goods for safeguard, partial enterprise can stop to cooperate with Xinjiang enterprise only, pass a large number of purchasing border outside cotton look forward to or the entrance cotton of and other places of the United States, Australia, Pakistan will solve raw material to supply a problem.
Zhang Biao also expresses, although company business sufferred this effect 2020,do not calculate too big, but prospective influence is evaluated hard. "The area that popularizes before our cooperation and farmer do not have a law licensed. This also means the cotton that we produce, cannot go through the channel of BCI current. And what have collaboration so is relevant purchase business or cotton mill, also do not have the raw material that the law supplies with us. Also do not have the raw material that the law supplies with us..
Industry of cotton of the fine in Wei Li county is finite liability company (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
The worker that disappears in cotton field
To " force labor " , a lot of Xinjiang cotton people feel to subdue.
"Cotton cultivates basically plucking with labour link. Chance of past obtain employment is little, pick cotton to become a side occupation that the farmer makes money. Pick cotton to become a side occupation that the farmer makes money..
The general manager Li Chengjun of farm of Xinjiang peaceful prosperous is senior " pily person " , experienced make preparations from the farm mechanization whole process. Company of industrial and finite liability is located in the peaceful prosperous that he is in Xinjiang Wei plows a county, most antedate to was founded 1994. Current, company farm cultivates pily acreage to make an appointment with 65 thousand mus, cotton ginning factory produces per year on lint 10 thousand tons.
Go up century 90 time, the artificial fee that farm recruit collects a gardener makes an appointment with 0.6 yuan / kilogram. Whenever cotton harvests time, those who come from and other places of Gansu Province, Qinghai, Sichuan, Henan " the main forces that collect a flower " enter Xinjiang.
According to Introduction Li Chengjun, 2003 around, hand of Wei Li county picks cotton person labor cost to break through 2 yuan / kilogram. Quantity of a day of average defloration is in Everyman 80-100 kilogram, aggregate RMB 200-300 yuan / day. "One day when work well can pick 150 kilograms, on lunar income 10 thousand " .
In recent years, xinjiang cotton produces mechanization process to accelerate, no matter be land management, cotton,cultivate, still be cotton picked wait for link, personnel decreases greatly with work number. Whenever harvest season, on wide Xinjiang cotton field, come from countrywide each district " the main forces that collect a flower " already exited historical arena, those who replace is professional and efficient mechanization operation.
relatively the north at realizing mechanization earlier border, open of Na Jiang farm " cotton picker " the times is later.
"2015, our farm appeared busy season hires difficult question, valence does not have city. Then, we also begin attempt machine to collect. " Li Chengjun says, peaceful prosperous farm closes at trying a machine to collect first 2016, achieved 40% machine to collect rate, increase by degrees year after year subsequently. To the season picking cotton 2020, farm machine is collected rate is basic achieve 95% . "Planted in the past cotton basically relies on a person, rely on a machine now " .
On personnel recruit, controller of look forward to of much name cotton to south the reporter expresses on the weekend, company and employee are freewill sign labor contract or use labor agreement, personnel comes from mostly at making public labour market, around villager, and staff of nonlocal Wu work, mix according to permanent worker on pay busy season casual gives pay different firewood reward.
It is with peaceful prosperous farm exemple, li Chengjun expresses, the farm founds more than 20 years, also accumulated good public praise in the respect that use worker worker. Every arrive busy season, return somebody to call technically will seek advice to whether use worker worker; Also somebody starts kin friend to come along, had formed the relatively fixed channel that use worker worker.
No matter be the ranch of 10 thousand mus of class, still be the young farmer of a few mus of ground, mechanization of Xinjiang cotton field is picked already became the tide that cannot resist. Zhang Biao expresses, 2018-2020 3 years year, the company purchases cotton in, machine pick cotton occupy than rising quickly. "Come 3 this years, machine picking the proportion that picks with the hand is a thirty-seventy ratio respectively, 55, 91. Machine picking the proportion that picks with the hand is a thirty-seventy ratio respectively, 55, 91..
Plant from upriver cotton, to downstream cotton mill, xinjiang cotton production machines each link on chain, suiting actively machine extract a trend. Xinjiang country glad is planted Wang Hongzhe of minister of ministry of limited company qualitative check tells course of study south on the weekend reporter, when in recent years cotton grower is buying a seed, more apt buys those who suit mechanization exercise to plant seedling.
"When cotton grower is choosing a seed now, metropolis inquiry cotton is planted comfortable unsuited machine is collected. Resemble fruit-bearing shoot part for instance the seed with tall, compact emerge is more welcome. Practice also proves, this kind of seed is in Na Jiang's sales volume is good also. " Wang Hongzhe says.
Several years ago, xinjiang is very much textile mills not quite accept machine pick cotton. Because relatively pick cotton at the hand, machine the impurity that pick cotton is much, yarn output is little, weave rate is low. "But, textile mills also welcomes now machine pick cotton. Because machine pick cost low, there is an advantage too on pily price, force cotton mill improves technology. " Zhang Biao expresses.
Regard boreal border cotton as look forward to, citing of Gao Ruinan of manager of business of Hao star linen-cotton says, every mus of ground produces 400 kilograms of cotton about, current machine plucks cost needs 100 money only. If be to be collected artificially, every mus of cost amounts to 800, still do not include to take cost artificially. "Machine collect efficiency tall, cost low, servantchoose a person for a job why be versed in? Now in boreal border cotton field, occasionally the person sees rarely. " Gao Ruinan says.
Industry of cotton of the fine in Wei Li county is finite liability company (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
Stick hire advertisement and research report
Xinjiang cotton textile is sufferred " force labor " censure, be not only then at BCI. Before this, orgnaization or the media such as Australia, United States, England also have a lot of phonate, announced " findings report " .
In the statement that issued on December 18, 2020 in BCI Switzerland headquarters, cite center of policy of American Washington whole world (CENTER FOR GLOBAL POLICY) a report. Favour of country of report author Zheng (Adrian Zenz) ever was called to be by spokesman of Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs " American information orgnaization operates establish instead China research organization backbone " .
This the name is " move of Xinjiang labour force and arouse minority defloration " the report says, "Every year worker of more than 500 thousand minority is participated in by assign seasonal the job that pick cotton, their working environment may exist very tall mandatory. Their working environment may exist very tall mandatory..
In the meantime, the report still oppugned the job taking off deficient of Chinese Xinjiang area.
For instance, "Organization of basic level government grooms with labour " be regarded as " force labor " , "Encourage the villager to become rich with one's shoulder to collar " be regarded as " propagandist brainwashing " , "One-stop the service that use worker worker " be regarded as " close surveillance " , "The concentration of convenient worker is held in the palm " be regarded as " enslaving education " . However, in divisional whether " force labor " main factor -- respect of firewood fulfil evidence, this report appears not speak in detail.
Similar about Xinjiang area " learning reports " or " human rights reports " be not minority.
On March 1, 2020, australia wisdom library " institute of Australian strategy policy " (abbreviation ASPI) released " traffic the Uygur nationality: Border outside " reeducate " , force labor and monitoring " research report. This report accuses Xinjiang area existence forces labor, and scarce ground listed " may intended or enlist the foreign country that forces labor and Chinese company innocently " .
See from report content, report data comes from at " research of analysis of picture of public Chinese document, satellite, learning and on-the-spot media coverage " etc.
Southern the reporter cites to the report on the weekend the discovery after content traces to the source, exist to be read not less by accident among them.
For instance, the report says " a variety of origin make clear, in the factory of Chinese each district, the worker is in a lot of the Uygur nationality so called ' militarization management ' next living slashing, the life of segregation. " the data that this conclusion cites, it is Chinese socialization platform " Baidu is stuck " in hire advertisement first. Advertisement is written with Chinese, "Contract period has a lot for a year! ... half militarization management, can bear hardships, personnel not prediction of a person's luck in a given year, the contract is signed how long, go to work how long! Send since 100 people! " in condition of Chinese real sign, such network hires advertisement not to have enough authority and authenticity.
Be like again, the report recommended the name is " the seminal root plant that allows ethical solidarity at the heart -- sidelights of workingwoman of minority of care of the real situation of city the Women's Federation " press. Original report shows, "Come for years, peaceful smooth the Women's Federation passes female worker of member of the Women's Federation and the Uygur nationality to be contacted in group, begin visit, ... establish psychological dredge room, confabulate room to wait, female to the Uygur nationality worker begins psychological dredge service. " this report is unscrambled to be: "Evidence makes clear, in factory interior, the worker's thought and behavior get close monitoring. The worker's thought and behavior get close monitoring..
In recent years, these do not father to be full of bias even sincerely " learning reports " , already became the source of some western media and data of origanization construction cite, then wide for transmission.
On December 15, 2020, BBC BBC issues video report, cite afore-mentioned report data, show Xinjiang cotton look forward to may exist force labor. In the meantime, the report says, BBC reporter is in limited company of dress of seed of pomegranate of Xinjiang library car (abbreviation " firm of pomegranate seed dress " ) block the way of the experience when interviewing. From the point of video picture, this factory is surrounded by high fence, be full of a secret it seems that.
The reporter visited south on the spot on the weekend this company, discover here is the clothing processing factory of a normal operation. Ouyang Zhijun of controller of company of pomegranate seed dress to south on the weekend reporter introduction, the company was established on March 25, 2020, at present plant area has 3 factory building, include clothing factory, box to wrap factory, shoe factory to wait respectively. The worker is more extend in villages and towns after help wanted, make public recruit and come.
"It is with clothing factory exemple, after worker invite applications for a job comes, we can undertake grooming to them. During grooming, they have the salary that keeps a copy every months 1540 yuan. In classics works after be being admitted formally, we can sign formal labor contract with employee. " Introduction Ouyang Zhijun.
He the labor contract that to south the reporter showed employee on the weekend and the sheet that quit work. Introduce according to its, since the factory is established oneself, employee fluidity is greater. "Because our employee is,come from rural invite applications for a job. The farmer learns a skill to the factory, affirmative need gets used to a process. After the course grooms, suit stay; Do not suit, we can quit work. We can quit work..
Gu Lini comes loose Mu Nuerdong is Yu Jiwu of library car city person of Si Tang countryside. She entered company of pomegranate seed dress in April 2020. Mastered the flow that make the clothing adroitly already through grooming, a few short the month becomes workshop group to grow from average woman worker.
"Old person and child are taken care of in the home all the time after I marry. April 2020 when, my husband asked to open plant of a dress newly to here, encourage me to try. " Gulini comes loose Mu Nuerdong says, she eats weekday, there is a noon break time of half hours midday everyday. The bus is taken to come home when on the weekend, half hour wants about on the road. "After much individual earns money in the home, standard of living rose apparently. Current life suits purpose very much, next, my target is the directive teacher that becomes factory workshop. My target is the directive teacher that becomes factory workshop..
Industry of cotton of the fine in Wei Li county is finite liability company dimension a group of things with common features employee (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
In cotton " dark battle "
Why does this Xinjiang cotton encounter BCI " remove sb's name from the rolls " ?
Orgnaization of BCI top authority is BCI general meeting, the election gives council to handle routine. On January 20, 2021, southern the reporter sees from net of BCI headquarters official on the weekend, current BCI board shares 11 members, have member of 2 independent board additionally. These enterprises or orgnaization come from the country such as India, Pakistan, Australia, United States mostly, doing not have is " Chinese book " .
Current, BCI board chairman thises by dimension of division of mark · Lu (Marc Lewkowitz) hold the position of, he also is the United States " SUPIMA " the president of the company holds presiding apparitor concurrently, this company aims cotton of horse of skin of high grade cotton of operation and promotion United States (PIMA Cotton) , the market competition that is kept in certain level with Chinese Xinjiang cotton concerns.
In addition, brand of 3 Euramerican shopkeeper also ascends body board, it is England respectively general merchandise of retail brand Martha (Marks And Spencer) , H&M of Swedish dress brand (Hennes & Mauritz) , Li Wei of brand of American bull-puncher dress this (Levi Strauss & Co) .
Current, BCI in member of thousands of whole world, chinese member basically is centered in the upper reaches in industrial catenary, wait for factory of cotton grower, cotton ginning, cotton mill mostly. And brand business kind Chinese member has 2 only, it is how to step respectively, Li Ying room.
Appear on the market how does the company step sports (02020) announce in newspaper of 2019 companies money, this company became BCI member 2019, the department becomes the company of Chinese sporting goods that joins BCI for first. August 2020, shanghai baby child things company " Li Ying room " also announce to join BCI, affirmatory purchase to 2024 of 60% " can last more cotton " .
In the cotton spinning modes of life and relation to their environment that builds in BCI, the speech authority of Chinese enterprise and Euramerican enterprise is not equal also. Master the industrial chain that purchases an amount the natural advantage of downstream brand business is farther depress in square " balance " .
"Besides very close spruce a particular year, pily market is buyer's market in major while. " Introduction Zhang Biao says, brand of cotton spinning of a lot of international can last use BCI cotton regards as " window " , undertake tracing to the source to supplying chain. If raw material is not,can last cotton, refus of brand chamber of commerce is received buy.
"So, if want to cooperate with Euramerican old brand, must take BCI to be able to last pily quota. To take attestation, the word that must hear BCI is cultivated. Conversely, if do not follow BCI collaboration, it is cotton grower does not sell not merely give good price, wait for even factory of cotton mill, cloth, hand-me-down factory to also want balance advantages and disadvantages, then causes catenary of industry of whole cotton spinning to be able to be affected. " Zhang Biao says.
Since 2020, be able to bear or endure the brand of many Euramerican dress such as gram, H&M, Adidasi boycotts Xinjiang cotton publicly.
H&M of brand of Swedish quick pass the time in a leisurely way is mentioned in government-owned net statement, "The Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR) it is China's biggest cotton grows an area, so far, our supplier purchases cotton from the farm related this area and BCI all the time. And BCI decides to suspend the BCI cotton license in XUAR, mean ' the production to us, with us cooperative supplier will not purchase BCI cotton from XUAR ' . With us cooperative supplier will not purchase BCI cotton from XUAR ' ..
American brand is able to bear or endure the gram also says at issueing statement in March 2020, its do not purchase a product from Xinjiang area, already affirmed with contract supplier, the dry goods that does not use Xinjiang zone or spinning are tasted. In addition, be able to bear or endure the gram still expresses, its already stopped in the factory of Chinese Qingdao from new employee of Xinjiang area invite applications for a job, this factory will have any Xinjiang stuff no longer.
The publicity of Euramerican brand business " cut banquet " , let business of trade of Chinese cotton textile be faced with " be in a dilemma " .
One does not wish the company controller of sign one's name expresses, "A lot of brand business know, my enterprise and whole Xinjiang are nonexistent force labor. But by force of pressure, they must concern with our make a clear distinction, reject to use the raw material of our company, close to company battalion cause huge loss. " and, "Pecuniary loss is the surface only, the loss of the brand cannot be estimated more. The loss of the brand cannot be estimated more..
Limited company of pomegranate seed dress (southern on the weekend reporter Mao Shujie / graph)
Appeal of cotton look forward to proposes a standard oneself
Via this be related, controller of look forward to of cotton of much home Xinjiang thinks, can last what China should build him pily standard.
On pily industry chain, cotton grower and farm are located in most upper reaches, after close therewith is treatment end respectively, be like cotton ginning factory, cotton mill; Finished product end, be like cloth factory, hand-me-down factory; Sell end, if trafficker, cotton spinning is retail the brand. BCI serves as can last pily standard initiates one of orgnaizations, each link that connected to swim up and down.
Controller of look forward to of much name cotton introduces, after the examine and verify that passes BCI, the cotton look forward to that is in upper reaches can get every year " can last cotton " quota appraise value, enter as cotton next different grow level, this data also is updated ceaselessly. Every arrive results season, cotton look forward to people trade with respect to what offer in BCI in the system, value of according to quota can last to downstream company sale cotton. "Quota value needs to pass the estimation of examine and verify of BCI, all cotton that are not us to produce treatment can pass BCI attestation. " Zhang Biao says.
On the other hand, downstream brand business purchases the cotton of classics attestation to BCI member company, measure according to purchasing to BCI pay corresponding charge. To maintain company image, international old brand can have certain level to raw material. Cannot use cotton grower of child labour, safeguard for instance soil of creditable labor, safeguard can be used continuously etc. Be based on BCI to be able to last the concept such as the environmental protection in pily standard, human rights, downstream brand business often will purchase BCI cotton to regard a company as window.
"Retail brand business is expended to the member of BCI a huge sum and purchase cost, and BCI created to be able to last pily zoology. If cotton appeared problem, that is not the problem of brand business, however BCI was not done good guard a pass. I feel they are the relations of mutual protection. " one does not wish the controller of cotton look forward to of sign one's name is commented on so.
Li Jiagang of general manager of finite liability company represents industry of cotton of the fine in Wei Li county, "BCI is among them certain clause, do not suit our development, hope state lends his name about the branch take the lead, the pull current Cheng of the standardization that organizes trade public figure to make him China. The pull current Cheng of the standardization that organizes trade public figure to make him China..
"It is with creditable labor exemple, BCI regulation is ' care worker, do not want physical punishment, do not want back pay, do not want child labour ' etc. " Zhang Biao thinks, although BCI is so-called,be global standard, but its demand is not high. With farm of great majority of current Xinjiang area cultivate a level to look, accord with rate is higher. "But, he decides the level, influence is over there the other side. So we just meet person of be enslaved to be enslaved to. So we just meet person of be enslaved to be enslaved to..
In July 2020, the United States rolled out agreement of American cotton credit (U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol? ) , allege, "Supplying catenary to examine increasingly strict and the period of constant to the demand of diaphaneity growth, american cotton trusts regulations will is but durative cotton cultivates set new standard. American cotton trusts regulations will is but durative cotton cultivates set new standard..
Liu Zhi is anxious, once UCTP obtained the control of domain of international cotton spin to counterpoise, each country of certainly will requirement uses beautiful edition " attestation standard " and " supply system of catenary date from " . Together with United States sells a field in international originally control force, development of Chinese spin estate will be immersed in bigger passivity.
Actually, "Force labor " of this one concept in fashioning a process, media of a few United States and orgnaization pay close attention to highly all the time.
On December 18, 2018, associated press rolls out a name to be " product of battalion strong service exports Xinjiang reeducate the United States " press, cause American custom and bureau of border land protection to launch investigation to coming from entrance product of China.
March 2019, " wall street daily " say presence of BCI member firm forces labor issue, oppugn force of BCI public letter.
In January 2020, association of American fair labor is released " Chinese Xinjiang forces labor " special subject report, allege further " the worker may be sent toward the factory not to have firewood job, labor be forcedded " .
Cao Wei of executive director of research center of Lanzhou university politics and security of state of international relation institute to south the reporter points out on the weekend, the United States pays close attention to Xinjiang now ' force labor ' or it is human rights problem, actually is a cover.
"Doing not have the problem that solves satiate meal to talk about human rights is a castle in the air. We are offerred to brethren of impoverished the Uygur nationality now groom, obtain employment post, be acclaimed by the west however " ' force labor ' " , caused very bad international effect. Caused very bad international effect..
Cao Wei says, the pily crop of Xinjiang is in countrywide cotton crop proportion is very high. If the foreign capital of the textile of Chinese exit, sale in domestic market, joint-stock brand cannot use Xinjiang cotton, limitted the development of Xinjiang cotton textile already, also be the concussion of pair of countrywide cotton textile.
"Pily war " in still fermenting continuously. On March 24, 2021, how does brand of Chinese sports dress step to make a statement in official small gain say, how to step to purchase the cotton that produces an area to produce with use China cotton all the time, include Xinjiang cotton, also will continue to purchase and use Chinese cotton in future. At the same time this statement still shows, "Noticed the statement that BCI published recently, be deeply concerned badly to this matter, we are starting relevant program, quit this organization. Quit this organization..
(the Liu Zhi in article is alias. In relief San of trainee Tang Ou also has contribution to the article)
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